Have a Question?
FAQs about perfumes.
We share professional answers and advice to common queries about perfume selection, usage, preservation, and more. Whether you are a novice in the world of perfumes or a fragrance enthusiast seeking a deeper understanding, you can find valuable info here.
Perfume & Me
Wearing perfume can make us more attractive and confident. A psychological study has shown that individuals who regularly wear perfume exhibit stronger social skills than those who do not. If a person smells pleasant, they tend to be more confident and humorous during interactions. This pleasant scent becomes an extension of their personality, adding a captivating layer of complexity to their persona.
The preferences we exhibit towards specific fragrances can be attributed to both inherent predispositions and acquired experiences. From the moment we are born, we possess an innate tendency towards certain aroma categories, coupled with specific sensitivities. As we journey through life, our experiences, intertwined with emotional associations, create a unique “scent library” within our brains. These components collectively influence our attraction or aversion to particular scents. Such inquiries are common, particularly among those exploring the world of perfumes or seeking to understand the psychological impacts of aromas.
Yes, it does, even though we may not consciously realize it. Scents can trigger emotional responses within us without our knowledge. You might perceive someone as aggressive or confrontational, but that might be the fragrance they are wearing playing tricks with your nerves.
Perfume has the ability to trigger past memories due to the strong association between scent and memory in our brain. When we encounter a particular fragrance, our brain immediately searches for related memories, which can create a nostalgic and emotional response.
It is quite possible. As we age, our self-image and preferences evolve, leading to changes in perfume choices. In our teenage years, we may lean towards light and gentle fragrances, while in our twenties, we may choose perfumes that align with our personal style and different scent profiles.
Perfume should not be sprayed in intense sunlight as it can react with UV rays, potentially irritating the skin and causing redness. However, there are some alcohol-free perfumes available that do not pose this issue.
If a particular perfume causes coughing, wheezing, headaches, or nausea, it is essential to breathe in fresh air and clear your nasal passages. If you experience skin redness and itching, rinse with cold water and gently pat dry. Some parts of the body are more sensitive, such as the neck, so if you have a mild allergic reaction, consider applying the perfume to a less sensitive area. Safe areas include behind the ears, on the knees, elbows, chest, and wrists. If a specific perfume continues to trigger allergies and you don’t want to give it up, you can spray the perfume directly on your clothing.
How To Applying Perfume
Perfume should be applied to areas where the skin temperature is high and the blood circulation is good. Heat helps the perfume to evaporate, making it smell stronger. The ‘pulse points’ on our body (see the next question) are the best places to spray perfume. Moreover, it’s recommended to spray on multiple pulse points, rather than just one.
Spritz your fragrance onto pulse points such as the inner wrists, the inside of your elbows, below your earlobes (not behind the ears), underneath your throat, and the inside of your knees. Basically, any spot where you can feel your pulse!
Both methods are acceptable and the result is essentially the same. Dabbing perfume may lead to a slight waste of a few drops, whereas spraying it directly from the bottle can minimize this wastage.
To apply perfume correctly, hold the bottle about 6-8 inches (15-20 centimeters) away from your skin and spray a light mist on your pulse points, such as the wrists, neck, and behind the ears. Avoid rubbing the perfume into your skin, as it can alter the fragrance. Allow the perfume to dry naturally on your skin to fully enjoy its scent.
Yes, it is acceptable. Despite the common advice against it, claiming that it “damages perfume components,” it is a widespread misconception. Simple rubbing will not chemically damage the perfume structure at the molecular level. However, avoid applying excessive force while rubbing to prevent increased temperature and accelerated evaporation.
Perfume can be directly sprayed on clothing. It can also be sprayed on hair when it is still damp after showering or on a comb. Additionally, you can immerse washed undergarments in scented water or add a few drops of perfume to the iron. If a fragrance uplifts your mood, why not utilize it extensively?
It is not recommended, especially for beginners. Each perfume has a complex formulation with carefully balanced ingredients. Mixing several perfumes together may result in an unpleasant odor. However, experienced fragrance enthusiasts can experiment with combining simpler, more natural fragrances. Consider factors such as fragrance style, fragrance family, and concentration when layering perfumes. Some suitable fragrances for layering include the Aqua Allegoria series from Guerlain and many fragrances from Jo Malone.
The Psychology Behind Fragrances
Yes, it can. One of the significant attributes of perfume is its direct influence on our emotions. Research has shown that perfume can stimulate, calm, delight, or depress, forming positive or negative memories or even aid sleep. One of the foundations of aromatherapy is the idea that scents can affect our emotions, serving as an important tool for balancing the mind and body.
Ann Gottlieb, a consultant for the perfume development department of Calvin Klein, pointed out in an interview that while the therapeutic effects in fragrant products are more folklore and tradition-based rather than scientific, increasing research has proven the mood-enhancing effects of scent. In the near future, perfume will not only make us smell better, but also contribute to our mental and physical health.
Recent research has shown that the smell of peppermint and lily of the valley can keep us alert during work. A Japanese company has added peppermint essence to the office air to improve employees’ work efficiency. The scent of citrus can start our mornings on a positive note; a light floral scent can help us concentrate more in the afternoon; the smell of cedarwood can relieve fatigue in the late afternoon.
Increasing scientific research confirms the effect of fragrance on humans: Perfume can affect our psyche. By measuring the brainwaves and heart rate of subjects, researchers have found that scents such as lavender and chamomile can bring about calm, while scents like neroli and bergamot can be invigorating. A recent scientific experiment dedicated to investigating the specific effects of different scents on individuals underscores the undeniable psychological impact of fragrance.
Yes. People often choose perfumes not just for their pleasant scents, but also because they reflect their personality. A German psychologist, Dr. Joachim, has noted in a survey that extroverts tend to prefer fresh, green scents, introverts tend to lean towards oriental scents, and dreamers or people with changing moods often like floral or powdery scents.
Undoubtedly, fragrances can evoke a sense of sensuality, but there is currently no scientific research indicating that perfume directly stimulates sexual desire. Olfaction is highly connected to human sexual activity, and powerful sexual pheromones are emitted from glands in the groin and underarms. Perfume can boost confidence and enhance flirtation with its aromatic allure, making it a powerful tool of seduction.
According to American scholar Michael Shipley, the nose may be considered a sexual organ, and smell can arouse sexual desire more effectively than visual stimuli. The confidence and pleasant aroma provided by perfume make us more attractive to the opposite sex. Renowned perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain once said, “In the darkness of the night, when a woman lies in the embrace of her beloved, the perfume she wears plays a vital role.”
Exploring Men’s Fragrances
Absolutely! Just as with women’s fragrances, the choice of men’s scent often depends on the season. For the chillier months, a more robust, richer scent is generally preferred. In contrast, the warmth of spring and summer usually calls for lighter, fresher fragrances. However, if you have a favorite bold scent that you can’t part with, no problem at all – simply consider applying it a bit more sparingly in the heat.
Don’t spray too much. The actual scent of a perfume is usually stronger than one imagines. Men often unintentionally overdo it because their sense of smell is not as sensitive as women’s. In addition, many men’s aftershaves contain fragrances, which can lead to olfactory numbness and excessive perfume application.
Eau de Toilette (EDT) and Eau de Cologne (EDC) usually contain 5%-15% pure perfume oil, while aftershaves and lotions typically contain around 2%-4%, along with less alcohol (30%-65%) and added moisturizers and antiseptics.
No, it is not recommended to spray perfume directly on the face. Perfume, with its high alcohol content, can cause dryness and irritation to the sensitive facial skin, especially after shaving. It is advisable to use aftershave or post-shave products to protect and soothe the skin, while keeping perfume away from the face.
You can pat some water on the area where you applied the perfume. The water will combine with the natural oils on your skin, causing the remaining perfume to emanate. However, the fragrance will only last for a short period.
Yes, because everyone has different chemical compositions and skin types. The essential oils in perfume interact with the oils on the skin, so fragrance lasts longer on oily skin.
Men with oily skin should avoid using excessively heavy fragrances and opt for lighter options such as aquatic, green, or floral fragrances.
Men with dry skin should choose more concentrated perfumes for longer-lasting scent, such as oriental or woody fragrances.
Typically, men with darker skin tones have oily skin, which allows fragrances to last longer.
Tips for a Long-Lasting Fragrance
The key is to use a range of products from the same fragrance line, such as perfumed soaps, shower gels, body lotions, solid perfumes, body powders, etc. The different forms of scent in these products can complement each other and increase the longevity of the fragrance.
Some individuals’ skin chemistry makes perfume molecules evaporate faster—in essence, their skin ‘rejects’ the perfume.
Although an EDT typically lasts 3-4 hours, it may evaporate at 3 or 4 times that speed on the skin, perhaps leaving no scent after just an hour. Skin acidity is the main culprit. Lick your wrist—if there’s a sharp, stingy taste, it means your skin is acidic. The more acidic, the faster the evaporation.
Medications can also alter skin chemistry. Low-calorie diets, stress, spicy foods, and junk foods can all raise body temperature, leading to faster perfume evaporation. People with dry skin and pregnant women may also experience this issue, which is why many complain about a perfume’s lack of longevity.
A solution is to apply a layer of lotion before spraying perfume. This protective layer can extend the perfume’s longevity. Use body lotion or body cream to provide moisture, slowing down evaporation and potentially doubling the perfume’s staying power.
You can also use a matching body lotion with the perfume. Apply it after bathing, before your skin dries completely, and then gently spray the perfume.
Generally, no. Perfumes are not designed to evaporate over a whole day. If you want to keep the scent, it is best to reapply every 3-4 hours.
How To Choose The Perfect Scent
How to Choose a Perfume Based on its Fragrance Notes?
Some might argue that our sense of smell is highly subjective and emotional, leading to the misconception that perfumes are chaotic and unclassifiable products. However, this is not accurate. Just as we differentiate between floral and fruity scents, perfumes can be categorized. Once you recognize the fragrance notes that you are most drawn to in a perfume, you can filter and discover other perfumes with similar notes that you might equally enjoy.
Are you seeking the perfect cologne for your man but aren’t sure where to start? If your partner regularly wears fragrance, take a note of the scent family they lean towards – woody, fresh, oriental, etc. This can be your starting point. If your man is new to the world of fragrance, consider his style and personality. Use online tools like quick fragrance pickers designed to guide you based on these factors. Always opt for a universally appreciated scent when in doubt.
The safest way is to choose a fragrance that is similar to her favorite one. If you’re not sure about her preference, you could base your choice on her usual style of dress or personality. Sampling perfumes from BrandDecant can also be helpful. You could also try different fragrances at the counter before making a decision. You don’t have to be overly objective, follow your instincts and you’re sure to find a scent that closely matches her.
Finding your personal favorite perfume can be a subjective and personal journey. It involves exploring different fragrance families, trying out various scents, and paying attention to your preferences and reactions. It’s important to trust your instincts and choose a fragrance that resonates with your individual taste and personality.
How to Store Your Fragrance for Longevity
If stored properly, perfume can last for many years after opening. However, citrus-based fragrances tend to have a shorter lifespan once opened. Many perfumes use citrus as a top note, which may disappear over the years, but the heart and base notes are likely to remain intact.
Store your perfumes in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Sunlight is the number one enemy of perfume as it can break down the scent compounds. Extreme heat or cold can also disrupt the balance of the essential oils in your perfume, altering its scent. Splash bottles (without spray nozzles) should be used up promptly once opened to prevent slow evaporation. For long-term storage of fragrances, consider placing them in an airtight container away from light, significantly extending their shelf life.
Modern spray bottles are generally better at preserving perfume than traditional cap-only bottles. This is because less air enters through the spray mechanism, which also acts as a dust barrier and slows down the evaporation of the perfume.
Expired or deteriorated perfumes may exhibit changes in color, consistency, or scent. If the liquid has significantly darkened, thickened, or has an off-putting odor, it is likely that the perfume has expired. Expired perfumes may not smell as intended and can even cause skin irritation. It’s advisable to replace them with fresh fragrances for optimal quality and enjoyment.
It is likely due to the presence of water in the perfume. Placing the perfume bottle in a bathroom can cause condensation, resulting in water droplets inside the bottle. Apart from water, other impurities can also contribute to the cloudiness of the perfume.
After pouring out the original perfume, add external-use alcohol to the bottle, shake it a few times, and let it sit for a few minutes before spraying it out. If any residual scent remains, leave the alcohol in the bottle overnight and repeat the previous steps. It is essential to completely clean out the original perfume before pouring in the new one.
You can try gently tapping the sides of the bottle cap with a wooden tool. This often helps to loosen the cap. Avoid using glass or metal objects to tap the cap as they may cause damage.
When traveling, it’s best to carry your perfume in a travel-sized atomizer rather than pouring it into small plastic bottles. Plastic can react with the perfume and affect its quality. Additionally, make sure to pack the perfume in your carry-on luggage to avoid any potential damage or leakage due to changes in air pressure during the flight.
If you encounter any issues with a perfume you recently purchased, such as insufficient quantity or a change in scent, it is advisable to contact the place of purchase and explain the problem. Reputable retailers are generally accommodating and willing to offer exchanges or refunds for unopened and undamaged products due to personal reasons.
Please note that, apart from improper storage, other factors can also affect the fragrance of a perfume. Medications, hormones, certain foods, and individual skin chemistry can contribute to variations in scent perception. Therefore, a perceived difference in fragrance may not necessarily be attributed to the perfume itself.
How Perfume Interacts with Skin Chemistry
Because each of us carries a unique scent imprint, which influences the way a perfume smells on us. This scent is an external manifestation of our genetic makeup. Our skin chemistry, diet, medications, stress levels, and most importantly, our skin temperature, can all affect the original scent of the perfume.
It’s not as simple as it often sounds. Due to the varying chemical components on each person’s skin, the resultant scent when mixed with perfume can be different. The temperature of our skin is key. Some people have more pores or more fat in their skin than others. These factors initially affect the skin’s temperature, which in turn influences the fragrance of the perfume.
So, different people using the same perfume will produce unique scents.
A possible explanation could be subtle changes in your skin chemistry or body temperature. You might be following a low-fat diet or using new medications. Could you be pregnant? Are you exercising more frequently? Has your skin become drier? Are you using more lotion?
Other than reformulations, the composition of a perfume rarely changes. However, changes in diet and medication can produce new chemicals through your pores, thereby disrupting the original skin chemistry balance.
Try using the matching body lotion or one with a similar scent to your perfume. If this doesn’t resolve the issue, it might be time for a temporary change of fragrance.
The oils in the skin can dissolve and retain perfume molecules. Therefore, the oilier the skin, the stronger and longer-lasting the scent will be.
Generally, yes. Dry skin does not retain fragrance molecules as effectively as oily skin, so applying slightly more perfume can help maintain the scent longer.
Yes. When the body temperature rises, fragrance molecules evaporate more quickly from the skin. As a result, the perfume may initially smell stronger but dissipate faster. The chemical compounds present in sweat can also influence the chemical balance and aroma of the perfume.
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It is possible. Caucasians often have dry skin, which lacks the oil to lock in the scent, resulting in faster evaporation from the skin. In contrast, East Asians tend to have more abundant natural sebum, allowing for better fragrance retention.
Yes, smoking can affect both the longevity of perfume on the skin and the sense of smell. Nicotine, a neuroactive substance found in cigarettes, can alter the body’s chemistry and impact the sense of smell. Smoking may shorten the longevity of perfume on the skin and can dull the sense of smell.
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If you are following a low-fat diet, it’s possible that the oil levels in your skin may decrease, resulting in a shorter duration of the perfume’s scent. As a result, you may need to apply perfume more frequently to maintain the desired fragrance.
Indeed, consuming spicy food can potentially affect the longevity of perfume on the skin. Spicy foods can stimulate the secretion of oils and alter the skin’s chemistry, thereby potentially impacting the lasting power and character of the perfume’s scent.
Yes, it can. Firstly, antibiotics can alter the natural scent of your skin due to their impact on the body’s chemistry. Secondly, antibiotics may disrupt the balance of bacteria on the skin, which can in turn affect the way perfume interacts with your skin.
To assess the impact of factors like dieting or quitting smoking on the scent of perfume, you can compare the fragrance on your skin and a scent strip. Allow the perfume to interact with your skin for about 10 minutes, and then compare its scent to that on the scent strip to identify any differences.
Composition of Perfumes
It depends. A perfume might contain 10, 50, 100, or even more fragrances, but a perfume with 300 fragrances isn’t necessarily better than one with only 10. The key to perfumery lies in how the fragrances blend to express inspiration. Today’s perfumers tend to prefer shorter formulas that are more pure and easier to maintain in quality.
The process of creating a perfume is not as complex as it might seem. It is similar to how a painter uses colors to create a painting or how a composer arranges notes to create a symphony.
Pierre Dhumez, a perfumer, once described the process during an interview, “During the creation of a perfume, you first conceive 3-4 main fragrances in your mind, then think about which auxiliary ingredients can make these main fragrances more perfect. You can only conceive the proportion of these main ingredients when you are in a quiet, happy state. This proportion is crucial. It has to balance the characteristics of various smells so that when they are mixed together, they form a new smell, completely different from the individual ingredients. Once this step is complete, the ‘beauty’ is basically created. The next step is to ‘dress her up,’ such as doing her hair, applying makeup, and dressing her — this is the process of creating a perfume.” (From the book: Perfume, 1974, by William Kaufma)
Estée Lauder, founder of the eponymous company, wrote about the creation process of the Estée Lauder Aliage Sport perfume: “One day I picked up a green leaf on the beach, I was deeply attracted to its smell, I decided then and there to make it into a perfume. Girls who love sports need their own perfume: when they walk into the gym with their tennis shoes, they need a low-key scent. I haven’t found any perfume suitable for the tennis court yet, so I want to invent one.” (From the book: The Story of Estée Lauder’s Success, 1985)
Perfumers do not advocate individual heroism, they are like the conductors of an orchestra, playing a key role, the music they play tugs at the heartstrings of men and women through smell.
Different ingredients in a perfume have different rates of evaporation, leading to the experience of top, middle, and base notes when a perfume is sprayed on the skin.
The top note is the first impression of a perfume. They’re what you smell first when you open the bottle. Since top notes evaporate quickly, they usually last only 10 to 15 minutes.
Once the top notes dissipate, the heart notes or middle notes of the perfume begin to emerge. They make up the core of the perfume and define its main character.
The base notes are the foundation and soul of a perfume’s composition, binding the other ingredients together. They’re the scent that lingers the longest, typically lasting about 4 to 5 hours on the skin.
The longevity of a perfume can vary depending on individual skin chemistry. In general, pure perfume (Parfum) with the highest concentration can last for 6-8 hours. Eau de Toilette (EDT) and Eau de Cologne (EDC) will typically last for 3-4 hours. When applied to clothing, the fragrance can last much longer, but its projection may be diminished. Some excellent perfumes can linger for several days or even more than a week.
Yes, you can dilute perfume by adding more alcohol, but not pure alcohol. Use a mixture of 90% alcohol and 10% distilled water.
Yes, the higher the altitude, the faster perfume evaporates and the shorter its longevity. When traveling to regions with high altitudes like Tibet or Yunnan, it is recommended to choose perfumes with higher concentrations, such as perfume oils or EDP (Eau de Parfum), rather than EDT (Eau de Toilette) or EDC (Eau de Cologne).
In hot weather, scents have a stronger impact on our senses. Perfumes evaporate more quickly on the skin in hot temperatures. Therefore, it is advisable to choose lighter and fresher fragrances and reapply them regularly.
In cold winter months, our sense of smell is less sensitive, and perfumes evaporate more slowly on the skin. It is suitable to opt for richer and more substantial fragrances during this time.
Synthetic essential oils are not necessarily cheaper than their natural counterparts. In fact, some synthetic oils can be more expensive due to the complex manufacturing processes involved. When it comes to the impact on the skin, natural essential oils may have a higher risk of causing skin reactions, whereas synthetic oils are often formulated to be skin-friendly and safe for use in perfumes.
Not necessarily. The achievements of modern perfumery are based on the synergy between natural essential oils and synthetic fragrance oils. Both play equally important roles in the art of perfumery. Natural essential oils are directly extracted from flowers, leaves, trees, resins, and spices, while semi-synthetic oils are derived from natural sources and modified. Additionally, fully synthetic fragrance oils are created through artificial synthesis.
Synthetic fragrance oils complement and enhance the natural aromas, offering unique scents that may not exist in the natural world. Coco Chanel, for example, was the first to encourage perfumers to explore the realm of synthetic fragrance oils. She said, “I want to give women an artificial fragrance that doesn’t exist in nature. I don’t want any rose or lily of the valley; I want a unique perfume.” The result was Chanel No. 5, a floral-aldehyde fragrance with fresh aldehydes, combined with expensive jasmine and May rose from Grasse.
“It’s well known in the industry that many natural fragrances are cheaper than synthetic ones,” said perfumer Edmond Roudnitska. “When we use synthetic fragrance oils in a high-end perfume formulation, it’s not about cost-saving, but about creating a unique scent that doesn’t exist in the real world. Many synthetic fragrance oils actually smell better than their natural counterparts. For instance, after picking roses, they smell good for the first two days, but by the third day, they start to deteriorate. Each rose has its own scent quality, and natural fragrance oils don’t offer the same consistency as synthetic ones.”
Testing Fragrances Guide
Spray a small amount on your wrist or the back of your hand, then patiently wait for a moment to allow the perfume to interact with your skin before you start to perceive its scent. Avoid relying solely on smelling from the scent strip or directly from the perfume nozzle, as all perfumes need contact with the skin for optimal diffusion.
When sampling fragrances, opt for eau de toilette or eau de cologne as they dissipate faster and interact more quickly with your skin.
Test the first perfume on one wrist, then after a few minutes try another one on the other wrist, and a third one on your elbow. Remember not to test more than three fragrances in a short period of time, otherwise your nose will mix up all the scents.
If you prefer not to apply perfume directly on your skin, you can use scent strips or testing strips to experience the fragrance. These strips allow you to smell the perfume without having it come into contact with your skin. This method can give you an initial impression of the scent before deciding if you want to try it on your skin.
No, it is not recommended. Smelling directly from the bottle will only expose you to the sharp alcohol note and volatile top notes. Perfume needs to react with your skin to come alive and create a unique scent that belongs to you.
The Human Sense of Smell
Scent molecules enter through the nostrils and reach two small areas located behind the bridge of the nose. These areas are composed of thousands of specialized scent or olfactory sensors. Scent molecules dissolve in water and attach themselves to nerve cells. Recent research suggests that each cell is equipped with thousands of different receptors, each designed to identify a small group of distinct scents. They transmit scent information to the limbic system of the brain, which governs emotions and specific emotional responses.
While the limbic system is primarily dedicated to our sense of smell, it also influences our hormones, metabolism, stress responses and serves as an emotional center for libido, anger, fear, and joy. This is why perfume is considered an emotional experience.
Estimates suggest that the human nose can distinguish between around 5,000 to 10,000 different scents, though the exact number can vary greatly between individuals. This impressive sensory ability allows us to navigate the world around us, enhancing our experiences and even influencing our moods and behaviors.
Dr. Richard L. Doty, the director of the Smell and Taste Center at the University of Pennsylvania, has explained that women do generally have a more acute sense of smell than men. However, he also suggests that this could be due to cultural differences or hormones, as women tend to use their sense of smell more frequently in modern society, which may explain their increased interest in cooking, flowers, and fragrances.
Women’s sense of smell also tends to fluctuate more noticeably than men’s, making them more sensitive to various scents and odors. These fluctuations seem to be influenced by the release of certain hormones during the menstrual cycle. Estrogen can enhance olfactory sensitivity in the first half of the menstrual cycle and during the early months of pregnancy, while progesterone can reduce it in the second half of the cycle.
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Typically, our sensory receptors become desensitized with continuous stimulation, and our sense of smell can become dulled within a few minutes. Since we cannot escape the scent molecules on our bodies, our olfactory system becomes accustomed to them. Thus, we may perceive the fragrance as fading away, while others may still be able to smell it.
We start distinguishing scents from the moment we are born. Even two-day-old infants can recognize their mother’s scent and display alertness or aversion to other scents.
Between the ages of 20 and 40.
Yes, our sense of smell tends to decline as we age. Many individuals over the age of 50 gradually lose their ability to detect odors. That’s why older individuals often prefer stronger fragrances and may apply more perfume. Research shows that men’s olfactory cells age faster than women’s. Our sense of smell is often an overlooked sense, but it’s important to take care of it. Just like our muscles, our sense of smell can be strengthened through regular exercise, such as exposing ourselves to various scents.
Train your olfactory senses! Just as we exercise our bodies to improve physical fitness, regularly exposing your sense of smell to different aromas can enhance its sensitivity. Experiment with various concentrations of perfumes, expand your fragrance collection, and differentiate between day and night fragrances to heighten your olfactory experience.
When evaluating each fragrance, associate its scent with different colors. Dr. Avery Gilbert, a researcher at the National Geographic Smell Survey, found that individuals often associate the scent of patchouli with brown and spicy cinnamon with red.
Patience and consistent exposure to a variety of perfumes, ranging from floral and green notes to oriental blends, can enhance your nose’s sensitivity.
Ask your friends and family for their opinions. Over time, our sense of smell can become desensitized to the fragrance we’re wearing, making it difficult for us to perceive it ourselves. Relying on the feedback of those around you can help determine if you’ve applied an excessive amount of perfume. If people frequently compliment your perfume, it suggests that the concentration is suitable. However, if someone simply asks about the perfume you’re wearing without offering any positive comments, it may indicate that you’ve applied too much.
You can try up to three perfumes at a time. While it may be easier to differentiate between fragrances with distinct styles compared to those with similar styles, attempting to smell more than three perfumes at once can overwhelm your sense of smell and cause confusion.
Perfume History
A perfume can be considered classic when it transcends the ever-changing world of fashion, successfully captivates a wide audience, and stands the test of time. The first classic fragrance in the fashion world was Chanel No. 5, launched in 1921.
The Egyptians invented aromatic essential oils 5000 years ago. As great lovers of fragrances, they used almond and rose oil, frankincense and myrrh, cedar, mimosa, lily, nutmeg, cinnamon, styrax, benzoin, rockrose, white pine, and yarrow to create various aromatic products, such as aphrodisiacs, medicines, cosmetics, and incense. In fact, the art of perfume making in ancient Egypt was so refined that when archaeologists opened Tutankhamun’s pyramid in 1922, they found a pot of unguent that still emitted fragrance!
The evolution of perfume owes much to the civilizations of the Nile Valley. In Greece, athletes anointed their bodies with aromatic oils, while Romans would drink water soaked with flowers to enhance their appetite during feasts. The Persians invented distillation to extract the essential oils from flowers and were the first to use a large amount of exotic spices. These perfume-making techniques were introduced to the western continent during the Crusades.
1889 Guerlain Jicky: The first modern perfume.
1921 Chanel N°5: Known for its unique creativity and enduring charm.
1925 Guerlain Shalimar: Still one of the most perfect oriental fragrances created.
1964 Faberge Brut: Famous for the slogan, “If you don’t have confidence in yourself, wear another perfume”.
1966 Dior Eau Sauvage: Transformed the light cologne into a real perfume.
1973 Revlon Charlie: Convinced women that it’s okay to buy perfume for themselves.
1977 Yves Saint Laurent Opium: A unique scent inspired by the incense in Chinese temples.
1981 Giorgio Beverly Hills Giorgio: Made department stores take perfume seriously.
1992 Thierry Mugler Angel: A constantly imitated gourmand perfume.
1994 Calvin Klein CK One: Shook up the rules of the perfume world.
A Glossary of Fragrance Terms
The term ‘perfume’ derives from Latin and essentially means ‘sweet-smelling, flower-essence-infused liquid’. However, the earliest roots of perfume trace back to ancient Rome, where people would cast flowers, leaves, wood chips, and spices into fires during sacrificial rituals. The aromatic scents would then be released through the smoke (per fumum).
A perfumer is a professional who creates perfumes, crafting various unique fragrances through exceptional olfactory talents. Renowned perfumer Edmond Roudnitska once said: ‘Perfumery is not a mysterious art, but it requires remembering combinations of smells rather than individual ones. Only then can you create perfumes instead of haphazardly mixing essences together. Perfume creation is more about imagination than a sensitive nose.’
Roudnitska often emphasized: ‘Time is crucial for a perfumer. A classic perfume often takes many years to create, and you can’t always smell your formula in progress. Often, a perfumer needs to leave the lab for several months to study fragrances around the world.’
These are fresh, moist fragrances that feature marine characteristics, invoking associations with the beach and rain.
Headspace extraction technology is an advanced method of capturing authentic scents from everyday life. Scientists analyze the air surrounding flowers using highly sensitive instruments to identify and record unknown scent molecules, creating a DNA profile. By comparing these recorded scent molecules with traditional fragrance extracts, researchers can identify which molecules are lost during conventional extraction methods. This enables them to refine and recreate specific floral scents in a 1:1 ratio. Perfumes such as “Antonia’s Flowers,” “Flower Calyx,” and “Beverly Hills Red” were among the first to utilize headspace extraction technology, resulting in softer, fuller floral fragrances. As technology advances, headspace extraction will continue to have a significant impact on the future of the perfume industry.
Around 1680, a barber named Giao Paola Femini in a village in northern Italy performed a second distillation of esprit-de-vin, obtaining 75-80% alcohol. He used this alcohol to dissolve essential oils of lavender, rosemary, bergamot, and lemon. Femini named his creation “Acqua Mirabilis” (Miracle Water), which became the first-ever Eau de Cologne, though the term “Cologne Water” was not used until more than 130 years later.
In 1709, a perfumer named Johann Maria Farina presented the world with “Jean Maria Farina Acqua Mirabilis” Eau de Cologne, inspiring other perfumers in Cologne to imitate it on a larger scale. Over the next century, over 2,000 imitations appeared, almost all of them called “Farina.”
In 1792, Wilhelm Muelhens released “Franz Maria Farina Acqua Mirabilis” Eau de Cologne, which was later renamed “4711” in 1845.
In 1806, the Roger & Gallet company launched “Jean Marie Farina” Eau de Cologne.
In 1810, Napoleon ordered perfume formulas to be registered, but the makers of Eau de Cologne were unwilling to disclose their secret recipes.
Sillage refers to the ability of a perfume to project and spread its scent in the surrounding air. Perfumes with strong sillage can be smelled from a distance, but they may have a shorter longevity. Perfumes with weak sillage require close proximity to the skin to detect the scent, but they usually have a stronger longevity. Due to the alcohol content, fragrances with lower concentrations typically have stronger sillage than their higher concentration counterparts.
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The fragrance pyramid refers to the progression of a perfume’s scent from the moment it is applied to the skin. It includes the top notes, middle notes, and base notes. The top notes are the initial scents that are perceived immediately after application, while the middle notes develop after a short period. Finally, the base notes are the longer-lasting scents that emerge as the fragrance dries down. This progression creates a multi-dimensional and evolving olfactory experience.
Fragrances are categorized into different families based on their characteristics. For instance, floral fragrances feature floral notes, while oriental fragrances have warm and spicy notes. Aquatic fragrances evoke a fresh and marine-like scent. These fragrance families help classify perfumes and provide an understanding of their olfactory profiles.
Aldehydes are a group of compounds known for their penetrating and diffusive qualities, which impart a soft powdery aspect to fragrances. While traces of aldehydes can be found in natural essential oils like rose and citrus, their natural extraction is not feasible on a large scale. Therefore, all aldehydes used in perfumery are synthetically produced.
Aldehydes can be seen as laboratory-created aromas that allow perfumers to add a creative touch to natural fragrances.
Chypre, also known as “Cypress” in English, refers to a fragrance family that originated from the first woody Chypre perfume, “Chypre” by Coty, released in 1917. The term “Chypre” is derived from the French word for the island of Cyprus, which is associated with the birthplace of Venus.
Fougère, derived from the French word for “fern,” is a fragrance family that is characterized by a spicy, woody lavender aroma rather than an actual fern scent. The name Fougère originated from the perfume Fougère Royale, released by Houbigant in 1882. Fougère fragrances can be considered a combination of various scent families, often incorporating lavender floral notes, oriental accents of amber and coumarin, spicy elements of tonka bean, and the mossy and cedarwood nuances of Chypre. Most Fougère fragrances are designed for men and feature rich and layered aromas.
Common Terms in Perfumery
“Fragrance” is a broad term that encompasses a variety of scented products such as perfumes, colognes, body sprays, and deodorants.
“Perfume,” on the other hand, is a more specific term. It is further categorized by concentration into Eau de Cologne (EDC), Eau de Toilette (EDT), Eau de Parfum (EDP), and Parfum.
EDT, EDP, and Parfum usually denote the concentration or longevity of a perfume, indicating the ratio of alcohol or water to pure essential oils. Parfum, or perfume extract, is the most concentrated form of perfume that you can buy, containing 15%-25% pure essential oils.
Eau Fraiche (usually 3% or less perfume oil)
Eau de Cologne (2 – 5% perfume oil)
Eau de Toilette (4 – 10% perfume oil)
Eau de Parfum (8 – 15% perfume oil)
Parfum/Extrait (15 – 25% perfume oil)
Occasionally, you may see ‘Parfum de Toilette’ on a perfume, which means its concentration falls between EDP and Parfum.
These are fresh, moist fragrances that feature marine characteristics, invoking associations with the beach and rain.
What do people mean when they say “signature perfume”, “celebrity perfume”, and “designer perfume”?
A “signature perfume” refers to a unique scent associated with a specific individual. It could be a perfume that a person particularly likes and considers their own, or a scent that others identify with them. For example, when Marilyn Monroe declared that she wore only Chanel No. 5 to bed, it became her signature perfume in the public’s eye.
“Celebrity perfume” refers to perfumes released under the brand established by a celebrity’s name. Elizabeth Taylor’s Passion was the first successful celebrity perfume. Many American celebrities now have their own perfumes, such as Jennifer Lopez, Paris Hilton, Justin Bieber, and Lady Gaga.
“Designer perfume” refers to perfumes designed and produced directly by fashion brands. However, most designer brand perfumes today are not actually produced by the brands themselves, but are designed and manufactured by fragrance companies on their behalf. Coty, for example, produces perfumes for many well-known brands.
Cologne refers to a fragrance with a lower concentration. Aftershave is a lotion specifically designed for men’s post-shave care. Shaving can enlarge the pores and cause some degree of skin irritation. The primary purpose of aftershave is to tighten, soothe, and refresh the skin. The fragrance in aftershave products is usually similar to the accompanying cologne but with a milder scent concentration ranging from 2% to 4%, along with less alcohol (30% to 65%) and added moisturizers and preservatives.