Intro:
If you are intrigued by perfumes and happen to be a novice, then today is your lucky day! Branddecant, after years of refinement, has extensively restructured and optimized the 2015 edition of “Beginner’s Perfume Guide,” summarizing all the essential introductory knowledge for beginners. This read takes approximately 15 minutes and guarantees to significantly enhance your journey into the world of perfumery. From now on, you will embark on a marvelous olfactory adventure! Outline of this article:
- Knowledge and Concepts
- Brand Strategies
- Secrets of Perfume Terminology
- Utilization of Perfumes
- Common Questions and Misconceptions
- How to Choose Perfumes
- Authenticity Assessment
- Purchasing Genuine Perfumes Online
01 Fundamental Knowledge and Concepts
The foundation determines the superstructure, and in the world of perfumery, it’s crucial to first understand the terms and concepts!
Regarding Ingredients: Is it Perfume Water or alcohol?
The English word “Perfume” is derived from the Latin word “Parfumare,” meaning “to permeate through smoke.” In reality, the primary solvent in perfumes is alcohol. The composition of perfume includes alcohol, fragrance, and a small amount of water. Alcohol constitutes up to 80% of the perfume, making it the main carrier.
There are very few perfumes on the market that don’t use alcohol as a solvent, mainly for baby perfumes to avoid skin irritation, using an oily solvent instead. However, due to the poor volatility of oily solvents, oil-based perfumes fall significantly behind alcohol-based ones in terms of diffusion and fragrance performance.
Source of Fragrance: Fragrance Oil
The substance responsible for the volatile scent in perfume is fragrance oil, a mixture of various natural and synthetic fragrances. Internationally renowned fragrance and flavor companies such as Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, and Symrise provide fragrance ingredients to major perfume brands. Before the advent of synthetic fragrances, the only method of obtaining natural fragrances was extracting essential oils from plants and animals. In addition to extracting oils from flowers, fruit peels, trees, and animals, essential oils can also be obtained from roots and rhizomes through methods such as distillation and maceration, as seen in the case of the expensive iris root oil.
Thanks to the advancement of modern perfume industry technology, people can now obtain desired scents through synthetic molecules, such as common compounds like ambroxan, Iso E Super, and watermelon ketone. The emergence of synthetic fragrances has addressed the limitations and production issues of natural fragrances, compensating for the regrettable bans on certain ingredients and the loss of details during fragrance extraction. This has made the overall fragrance of perfumes sharper and more diverse, providing affordable alternatives to some rare natural ingredients. The prosperity of the perfume market today can be attributed to the high development of synthetic fragrances. Therefore, don’t be quick to avoid anything labeled “synthetic”; it is not synonymous with low quality.
Fragrance Evolution：
The concept of fragrance pyramids, with three distinct phases known as top notes, middle notes, and base notes, was introduced with the creation of Guerlain Jicky in 1889. This pyramid structure allows us to understand the development of a fragrance over time.
Top Notes: These are the initial scents detected upon spraying the perfume. They are highly volatile and typically last for 5-15 minutes. While top notes are evaporating, middle and base notes are also releasing, but they are overshadowed by the rapid evaporation of the top notes. The impression of the top notes is, in fact, a fusion of all the scents. Citrus notes, with their quick volatility and strong projection, often represent the top notes.
Middle Notes: As the top notes fade away, the middle notes become more prominent. Middle notes generally last from 20 minutes to 1 hour and form the core of the fragrance, shaping the primary impression. Floral and fruity notes are often associated with the middle notes.
Base Notes: These are the final lingering scents, constituting the foundation of the perfume. Base notes are less volatile and can persist on the skin for approximately 1-4 hours or even longer. Woody and musky ingredients, characterized by slow evaporation and long-lasting fragrance, are common in base notes.
It’s important to note that the fragrance pyramid is not an exact science; it serves as a general description of how a fragrance evolves. In reality, a perfume may exhibit multiple stages of scent, and some fragrances may lack distinct top, middle, and base notes. These linear fragrances maintain a consistent scent from start to finish without significant olfactory changes.
Fragrance Style Classification: Fragrance Families
Fragrance families, also known as fragrance types or olfactive classifications, categorize perfumes based on the ingredients used and their predominant olfactory characteristics. Presently, the fragrance industry employs a mainstream classification system of 12 fragrance families, each characterized as follows:
- Soft Style: Gourmand, Fruity, Floral
- Fresh Style: Citrus, Aquatic, Green
- Classic Style: Aromatic, Chypre, Fougère
- Rich Style: Oriental, Woody, Leather
The purpose of fragrance families is to provide a broad style definition for perfumes, enabling quick selection or elimination. For instance, if you prefer a fresh fragrance, it’s advisable to avoid rich and spicy oriental scents. The classification of fragrances into these families is more of a consensus drawn from experience rather than a precise scientific categorization. Determining which fragrance family a perfume belongs to can often be a subject of debate.
Perfume Concentration (EDC, EDT, EDP):
The terms EDT, EDP, and others found in perfume names represent the concentration and longevity of a fragrance. They also signify the proportion of alcohol to perfume extract.
- EDC (Eau de Cologne): 3 – 5% perfume extract
- EDT (Eau de Toilette): 5 – 15% perfume extract
- EDP (Eau de Parfum): 15 – 20% perfume extract
- Parfum/Extrait: 20 – 30% perfume extract
The diffusion of fragrance relies on the evaporation of alcohol and perfume extract. The ratio of alcohol to perfume extract determines a perfume’s projection and longevity.
Low Concentration Perfumes: Low in perfume extract, high in alcohol. These exhibit strong initial projection but weaker longevity.
High Concentration Perfumes: High in perfume extract, low in alcohol. They have less initial projection compared to low concentration perfumes but boast longer-lasting fragrance.
Different concentrations also entail variations in formulation. EDT and EDP versions of the same perfume don’t just differ in perfume extract concentration but also in ingredient ratios and selection, making them essentially different fragrances.
Longevity:
Refers to the maximum duration a fragrance remains perceptible and is directly proportional to the perfume extract content. Generally, higher concentration perfumes have longer-lasting fragrance due to higher perfume extract content, despite lower diffusion.
Sillage:
Denotes a perfume’s ability to diffuse in the surrounding air. Fragrances with strong sillage can be smelled from a distance, while those with weak sillage are detectable only when in close proximity to the skin.
Tester Perfume:
Tester perfume refers to trial-sized fragrances provided at counters for customers to sample. In English, these are commonly known as “Tester.” They are non-sale items, lacking regular packaging, and often missing caps or other accessories. However, the liquid inside is identical to that of the regular version. Testers are designed for personal use and are a cost-effective option.
Sample Perfume:
Sample perfumes, also known as fragrance samples, involve the transfer of original perfumes into smaller bottles. Following the principle of offering a variety in small quantities, these samples allow consumers to experience a range of scents at a lower cost. Additionally, they are convenient for on-the-go use.
Branddecant offers a variety of brand perfumes in sample sizes and gift sets, allowing you to experience the richest scents at the lowest cost.
02 Brand Strategy
Commercial Perfumes: Brands we are familiar with, such as Chanel, Dior, and Amouage, belong to the category of commercial perfumes. These brands produce scents that are more aligned with popular tastes, making them easily accessible to the general public. Many commercial brands also release salon product lines, such as Chanel’s Exclusive Collection and Dior’s Heritage Collection, which fall under the category of salon perfumes.
Salon Perfumes: Perfumes produced by brands that specialize in fragrance creation are referred to as salon perfumes. These brands often have a rich history and may not prioritize bottle design, with many using uniform perfume bottles. The selling point of salon perfumes lies in the use of higher quality and more expensive ingredients, as well as more unique and personalized formulas. Since they target a smaller market, the perfumers have more creative freedom, resulting in scents that are more imaginative, interesting, and distinctive.
Niche Perfumes: In contrast to commercial and salon perfumes, niche perfumes do not represent a strict classification. It is a vague concept referring to rare and less mainstream fragrances. The perception of what is considered niche can vary; a brand may be niche in Europe but quite popular in the United States. Some brands may be considered niche for beginners but are no longer considered rare for those with extensive perfume experience.
Objective Evaluation of Brands:
Beginners should not blindly pursue salon perfumes, as they may not necessarily be superior to commercial perfumes. While many salon perfumes indeed signify higher quality, their unique and unconventional formulas may not always be easily accepted by the general public, leading to potential pitfalls in purchasing. It is advisable for beginners to try samples through Branddecant before purchasing full-sized bottles. Discovering a scent that truly resonates with you will make the investment in a full-sized bottle more worthwhile.
Each brand has its unique style and character; for example, Burberry is approachable, Tom Ford exudes a powerful and sensual allure, Serge Lutens offers rich and bold fragrances, and Jo Malone specializes in refreshing and subtle scents. Understanding the fragrance styles of different brands can assist you in making informed choices when selecting perfumes.
03 Secrets of Perfume Terminology
Observing the terminology used in perfumes can reveal a wealth of useful information.
- Pour Homme/For Men: This suffix indicates a men’s fragrance.
- Pour Femme/For Women: This suffix indicates a women’s fragrance.
- Aqua/Acqua/Eau/L’Eau: Meaning “water,” these perfumes typically have a fresh style.
- Intense/Extreme/Absolute/Extract/Elixir: Indicates an intensified or enhanced version, often a richer iteration derived from the original perfume.
- Noir(e)/Nuit/Soir: Meaning “black” or “night,” these perfumes are often more seductive.
- Fraiche/Fresh: Meaning “fresh,” typically used to denote a fresh version within a perfume series.
04 Perfume Usage Guide
The Way to Test Perfume:
- Test Strips: Spray perfume on a test strip (cotton) to experience the original, unaltered fragrance.
- Skin: Spray a small amount on the wrists or back of the hand to sense the unique scent produced when perfume mixes with the skin.
- Ensure alcohol has evaporated before smelling to prevent it from numbing olfactory nerves and reducing sensitivity.
How to Apply Perfume:
- Spray on areas with high skin temperature and good blood circulation. Heat helps perfume evaporate, enhancing its fragrance.
- Ideal pulse points include the inner wrists, below the earlobes, below the throat, inside the knees, and any area where you feel a pulse.
- While applying to clothing may prolong the fragrance, it weakens diffusion. It’s recommended to spray on the skin.
- Avoid using a “perfume rain” technique to prevent wastage.
How to Store Perfume:
- Avoid sunlight, heat, and moisture. UV rays can break down perfume molecules, while extreme temperatures disrupt the balance of essential oils, altering the scent.
- Moist air can enter through the spray nozzle, causing separation of water and oil components. Avoid storing perfume in the bathroom.
- Keep commonly used perfumes in a cool, dark drawer or cabinet. For older or unused perfumes prone to leakage, use laboratory sealing film or PTFE tape around the bottle neck or nozzle to reduce evaporation and extend storage time.
Using Perfume for Different Occasions:
Consider the occasion and your identity when choosing a perfume. Opt for mild, elegant scents in professional settings and choose romantic, sweet fragrances for dates. Of course, you can ignore these guidelines and pursue a scent that reflects your personality and individuality.
05 Common Questions and Misconceptions about Perfume
Biases against Perfume
Some people believe that using perfume is only to cover body odor, while others associate perfume with profession and morality. These are baseless claims. Thousands of years ago, perfume was inseparable from religious rituals, symbolizing sacredness and purity. Today, perfume is a means of expressing personality. Pleasant scents can have a healing effect on the mind and body. The right perfume can enhance one’s charm and aura.
The Mystery of Longevity
Many counter attendants claim that a certain perfume can last for several days or even a week, but this is entirely false. The so-called long-lasting fragrance of over a day is the lingering time on clothes or the faint scent only detectable by pressing the nose against the skin. This faint “lasting” fragrance is hard for others to notice, so discussing longevity without considering diffusion is meaningless.
How Long Does Fragrance Really Last?
Perfume expert Michael Edwards has answered questions about the lasting power of different perfume concentrations. Eau de Toilette (EDT), a light perfume, lasts for 3-4 hours, while the highest concentration of pure perfume (Parfum) can last 6-8 hours. The duration varies based on different skin types, seasons, and individuals. Newly opened perfumes may give a false impression of short-lasting due to higher alcohol content. Additionally, spraying on clothes prolongs the fragrance compared to the skin.
Can Coffee Beans Restore the Sense of Smell?
After smelling too much perfume, inhaling the more intense aroma of coffee beans can supposedly restore the sense of smell. Do coffee beans have magical properties? In reality, the smell of coffee beans can only stimulate a shift in attention, reducing the overwhelming feeling of perfume but not restoring the sense of smell. The correct approach is to breathe clean air without any odor, wait in a well-ventilated environment for about 30 minutes, and the sense of smell will partially recover.
What Does “Perfume Fainting” Mean?
If you experience dizziness or nausea when smelling certain perfumes, don’t worry, it’s not poisoning; it’s a common reaction called “perfume fainting.” Many instances of perfume fainting occur because the scent triggers unpleasant memories, activating the body’s avoidance mechanism. Perfumes with aquatic and white flower notes are often associated with perfume fainting, but everyone has their own olfactory sensitivities. If unsure about fragrance reactions, try samples from Branddecant as a low-cost trial and error method.
Extended Reading: [Perfume-Induced Dizziness, Exploring the Dual Discomfort and Ways to Avoid]
Why is Everyone’s Taste Different?
The same perfume can have different scents on different people. Skin secretions, such as sweat and sebum, interact with the chemicals in perfume, altering the volatility and sequence of fragrance ingredients, affecting the final scent presentation. Moreover, individuals have varying sensitivities to different smells, leading to differences in the perceived fragrance.
Does Perfume Have an Expiry Date?
Perfume does not have an expiry date. Unlike wine, which improves with age due to alcohol content, perfume contains about 80% alcohol, ensuring it doesn’t expire. Proper storage can preserve perfume for decades.
Can Perfume Go Bad?
Perfume can go bad, but not due to time; rather, it’s influenced by exposure to light, heat, and moisture. Sunlight can degrade perfume molecules, leading to a change in scent. High temperatures destabilize chemical components, causing them to break down. Perfume bottles, especially samples, are not completely airtight, and in humid environments, perfume can slowly absorb water, leading to the separation of water and oil. With proper storage, perfume can last for many years.
Is the Scent Different in Decants and Full Bottles?
Alcohol is highly volatile. During the production of decanted perfume, it briefly exposes the perfume to air, causing a slight increase in the proportion of evaporated alcohol and fragrance. Therefore, you may find that decanted perfume smells stronger than the original bottled perfume.
When Buying Perfume Online, Remember to Let it Settle
Perfume purchased online may have unstable components due to transportation bumps, resulting in a sharp or alcoholic smell. It’s necessary to let it settle for 2-3 days, allowing the ingredients in the solution to stabilize again, and the fragrance will become milder. The concept of letting it settle is similar to the “aging” process in perfume manufacturing, where the fragrance ingredients are allowed to fully mix and stabilize before leaving the factory. However, transportation disturbances act as a “reverse aging.” Therefore, perfume purchased online generally needs to be left to settle for two to three days.
06 How to Choose Perfume
For beginners in the commercial or salon perfume world lacking judgment and olfactory experience, the safest approach is to select high-rated classic fragrances from top commercial brands. These perfumes meet mainstream aesthetic standards and ensure quality. Additionally, commercial brands employ renowned perfumers whose skills are on par with salon fragrances. Avoid blindly following online endorsements or purchasing trendy internet-famous brands. Some newly emerged brands with salon-like labels and captivating marketing might just be short-term trends relying solely on marketing.
Brand Positioning: Based on your budget and style, you can make initial brand selections. For affordable perfumes, consider CK, adopt, or Burberry. For stable high quality, look into Hermès, Guerlain, or Tom Ford. If you prefer a youthful vibe, explore scents from Moschino, Miu Miu, Anna Sui, among others. For more categorization and reviews, refer to Branddecant Blog.
07 Authenticity Verification
Authenticity verification is a challenging topic as there isn’t a universal method. Different brands have varying craftsmanship and quality control, and some authentic perfumes with poor quality control might resemble counterfeits. Don’t expect a perfume bottle priced at a few hundred bucks to resemble flawless jewelry. Online “real vs. fake” comparisons might become outdated due to brand design alterations. Counterfeit products may also evolve, enhancing their craftsmanship details.
Firstly, don’t assume a perfume is fake just because its scent, longevity, or craftsmanship differs from your imagination or memory. Determining authenticity must rely on comparing physical specimens of the same version. The most commonly used (but not foolproof) method involves comparing craftsmanship details of the perfume bottle nozzle and tubing. It’s advisable to explore more authenticity verification techniques online to prevent misunderstandings.
08 How to Buy Authentic Perfume Online
Online shopping platforms are mixed with both authentic and counterfeit products. Some stores on mainstream shopping platforms indeed sell counterfeits. Secondhand perfume platforms are especially prone to counterfeit perfumes, so it’s not recommended for newcomers to purchase secondhand perfumes. When buying authentic perfume online, the most crucial aspect is vetting the source. Opt for channels with long operating histories and multiple safeguards to avoid purchasing counterfeits. Branddecant is committed to selling genuine products, offering a trustworthy option for purchase.
This is Your Era Exploring the world of perfumes is an enchanting journey. When you encounter a perfume that captivates you, the delightful sensation is indescribable. The era of perfume guide will always accompany you. Here’s to you finding your beloved perfume soon.
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