The refreshing and invigorating scent of citrus is both delightful and penetrating. Its presence can almost mask most unpleasant odors, without overwhelming the senses. With these advantages, citrus perfume quickly caughts the attention of perfumers and found their way into perfumes.
The strong penetrating power of citrus comes with a downside—it tends to evaporate quickly and has a short longevity. Therefore, in most perfumes, citrus notes play primarily in the top notes.
However, if you love citrus fragrances, why not opt for a perfume that embodies citrus from start to finish?
Citrus perfume is fresh, non-cloying, and widely accepted. They are versatile and suitable for almost any occasion. Even those who claim to dislike perfumes cannot resist the charm of citrus fragrances. Overall, citrus perfume is perhaps even more suitable for summer than aquatic fragrances. But before you start choosing a citrus perfume, do you really understand it?
Citrus perfume is not only ancient but also part of a vast family. The peel of citrus fruits is rich in essential oils, which can be extracted directly by cold pressing. Although less expensive than floral essential oils, they are still costly. Therefore, not all citrus notes in perfumes are natural. A perfume using natural citrus essential oil undoubtedly differs in olfactory quality.
Moreover, we often struggle to identify the specific type of citrus in perfumes and often label it simply as “citrus.” This is because citrus essential oils in perfumes often appear in clusters, complementing each other to create a fuller citrus aroma. However, in most cases, this citrus is actually bergamot, but because bergamot is not commonly encountered in daily life, we are less familiar with it.
The members of the vast citrus family share similarities and differences in scent. Today, Perfume Times will introduce you to some common representatives of citrus. If you are a citrus lover, you won’t want to miss this guide to citrus classics!
Orthodox Citrus Family Members –
These members are the real citrus fruits, including commonly eaten oranges, tangerines, and grapefruits, as well as some less palatable but still used for spices, such as bergamot and bitter orange.
Bergamot
Bergamot is the largest member of the citrus family and the most commonly used citrus ingredient in perfumery.
Natural bergamot is very sour and not edible, but its peel is rich in essential oils, emitting a fragrant aroma somewhat similar to lemon. It is excellent for extracting essential oils, hence often referred to as “perfume lemon.” The fresh and delightful scent of bergamot, along with its ease of blending with other fragrances, contributes to the pleasant top notes of numerous perfumes. It is highly prevalent, and the citrus component we smell in 90% of perfumes is actually the scent of bergamot.
Representative Perfume:
Penhaligon’s Luna
This fragrance invites you to stroll through the refreshing breeze of summer with its invigorating lemony scent. In this fragrance, the lemon note isn’t overly tart but rather carries a gentle sweetness, intertwining with the fresh citrus aroma to create an uplifting fragrance. Luna preserves the natural characteristics of lemon, offering a refreshing and vibrant scent, as if bathing in the gentle breeze of a summer day’s sunshine.
Acqua di Parma Bergamotto di Calabria
This bergamot fragrance is reminiscent of lemon-flavored milkshakes or lemon slushies enjoyed on a summer day. Unlike common bergamot, it’s not as sour; instead, it has a hint of sweetness. However, it still retains the natural and refreshing qualities of bergamot. Just like adding ice, spraying it on your body feels cool and refreshing, bringing a sense of freshness and brightness.
Lemon
Lemon itself is a fantastic fragrance ingredient, yet it finds itself in a state of overuse. This is primarily due to the abundance of synthetic lemon-scented products in the market, leading us to associate lemon with artificial beverage flavors and household cleaners. However, the disparity between synthetic and natural lemon fragrances is vast. In perfumery, lemon provides a crisp and refreshing sensation, evoking a clean and invigorating aura.
Representative Perfume:
Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche Eau de Toilette
It showcases the unique charm of lemon, bringing a fresh and bright aroma. The refreshing lemon note blends with delicate floral and fresh woody fragrances, emitting a delightful lightness. This perfume is perfect for casual daytime occasions, offering a refreshing sensation as if you were surrounded by a lemon garden.
Diptyque Oyedo
Diptyque Oyedo is a vibrant and refreshing citrus fragrance launched by the French perfume house Diptyque in 2000. Inspired by Japan’s Edo period, it features Japanese yuzu as its main ingredient, exuding a crisp and lively aroma.
Goutal Eau d’Hadrien Eau de Parfum
Eau d’Hadrien embodies a simple and clean minimalist style. A fresh and bright lemon note, complemented by cypress, exudes a subtle fragrance akin to a crisp white shirt. Amidst its tart sweetness, there’s a neutral, refreshing style that appears brisk and sharp.
Lime
Lime, although similar to lemon in scent, is not an unripe lemon; they are two different species. Compared to lemon, lime has a lighter and drier aroma. It often appears alongside lemon in perfumes, contributing to the top notes of fragrances.
Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin
It features a refreshing lime note, distinct from lemon, with a lighter and drier aroma. In perfumery, lime is often paired with lemon, contributing to the top notes of fragrances.Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin showcases a refreshing lime scent, complemented by aromatic basil and bright mandarin, creating a unique and fresh fragrance. Perfect for daytime wear, it brings a refreshing sensation as if you were surrounded by a citrus orchard.
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde begins with the sensation of sipping on a sugary lime drink, simultaneously tart, sweet, and refreshingly cool. As it progresses, notes of fig and various tropical fruits emerge, with the subtle creamy scent of fig tempering the acidity of lime, creating a more comfortable fragrance reminiscent of a summer beach party.
Mandarin Orange
Mandarin oranges, scientifically known as “Citrus reticulata,” derive their name from China, the world’s largest producer of oranges. Hence, in English, they are directly translated as “Mandarin Orange.” In comparison to lemons, the oranges used in perfumery aren’t as tart and carry a bit more sweetness.
Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, 2011
Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine is a vibrant fragrance bursting with the essence of mandarin oranges. It captures the authentic taste of mandarin oranges, juicy and sweet, exuding the delightful aroma of fresh fruits. This perfume not only showcases the rich layers of mandarin oranges but also carries a subtle hint of bitterness, adding depth to its overall profile. Orange Sanguine is lively and refreshing, perfect for daytime wear, providing you with a sense of freshness and joy.
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic EDT
It captures the authentic taste of mandarin oranges—juicy, tender, and bursting with moisture, offering a delightful mix of sourness and sweetness. Complemented by basil, this fragrance introduces a fresh and invigorating green aroma, perfectly complementing the freshness of the mandarin, reminiscent of sipping on a chilled mandarin soda.
Grapefruit
Grapefruit, also known as pomelo or shaddock, is a relatively young fruit, but its use in perfumery is exceptionally widespread, surpassing that of ordinary oranges. Grapefruit essential oil is extracted from the peel using cold-pressing techniques, resulting in a full-bodied and enchanting fragrance with subtle woody and herbal notes. Compared to oranges, it carries a hint of bitterness, which adds to its uniqueness, providing a genuine natural feel that sets it apart from other citrus fruits.
Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil
In Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil, grapefruit dominates the top notes, vibrant and refreshing, akin to a walking giant grapefruit. Subsequently, it gradually unveils the heart notes of lotus, evoking a sense of wateriness, reminiscent of a serene and beautiful summer day by a riverbank, where tranquility reigns and the hustle and bustle of the city fades away.
Atelier Cologne Pomelo Paradis, 2015
Atelier Cologne Pomelo Paradis is a fragrance launched in 2015, featuring the refreshing scent of grapefruit. It captures the unique charm of grapefruit, offering a fresh and vibrant aroma with subtle bittersweet notes. This perfume also incorporates other fruity and herbal undertones, creating a delightful ambiance. Perfect for daytime wear, it brings a touch of freshness and vitality to your day.
Orange
Oranges are hybrid fruits derived from the crossbreeding of pomelos and mandarins, and their flavor and aroma are widely recognized. In perfumery, oranges are characterized by their sweetness, making them one of the sweetest components among citrus materials, with a distinct fruity aroma. If you come across someone mentioning oranges in a fragrance review, chances are the perfume will have a sweet note.
Hermes Eau des Merveilles
Hermes Eau des Merveilles embodies the scent of slicing open a fresh and juicy orange, perfectly capturing the essence of an orange. It reveals a complete citrus profile, from the outer peel to the inner flesh, reminiscent of preserving every drop of natural juice.
Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo – Arancia di Capri
Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo – Arancia di Capri captures the essence of slicing open a fresh and juicy orange, perfectly replicating the aroma of oranges. Like slicing through with a knife, it unveils a complete citrus profile, from the outer peel to the inner flesh, preserving every drop of natural juice.
Blood Orange
Blood orange is a variant of oranges, characterized by its crimson flesh, hence the name “blood” orange. In addition to the typical orange aroma, blood orange essential oil carries warm resinous notes and raspberry-like fruity undertones, making it a hybrid of citrus and other fruity fragrances. It pairs perfectly with various spices such as lavender, rose, sage, and frankincense.
4711 Acqua Colonia Blood Orange & Basil
In the combination with the green scent of basil, blood orange in 4711 Acqua Colonia Blood Orange & Basil appears exceptionally fresh. There’s a subtle soapy quality, reminiscent of the coolness after a refreshing shower. The overall scent is neither intense nor overly sweet, it’s simple yet classic.
Bitter Orange
Bitter oranges are known for their sour and bitter taste, distinct from the sweet oranges we consume daily. Cultivated primarily for their fragrance value, bitter orange trees yield essential oils from their fruits, flowers, and leaves. The familiar neroli oil, for instance, is extracted from its flowers and leaves.
Atelier Cologne Trefle Pur
Atelier Cologne’s Trefle Pur captures the refreshing and clean scent of bitter orange. Its unique bitterness imparts a remarkably fresh and clean feeling, reminiscent of the first drop of rain falling from the sky. The subtle acidity adds a touch of delicacy, while the presence of clover brings freshness, with hints of citrusy tartness, creating a natural and ethereal aroma.
Branch of Family to Citrus Scents
These fragrances are essentially not citrus fruits; they include flowers, leaves, and herbs. However, due to their scent resembling that of citrus fruits, they can also evoke the feeling of citrus, hence being classified within the citrus family.
Neroli
Neroli is derived from the blossoms of bitter orange trees through a steam distillation process, preserving the floral greenness along with a hint of unique bitterness. Due to the extraction process from the flower petals, neroli oil is exceptionally expensive. With its inherent bitter orange aroma, neroli is categorized within the citrus family.
Tom Ford Neroli Portofino
It is a classic neroli oil fragrance that blends the freshness of the Mediterranean with the vitality of sunshine. Inspired by the Italian Portofino, it exudes a vibrant citrus scent, accompanied by refreshing sea breeze and the fragrance of neroli blossoms. This fragrance is fresh and bright, with a delicate floral scent, evoking the feeling of basking in the sunshine on the Italian coast, enjoying the leisure of a seaside vacation.
Diptyque L’Eau de Neroli
Diptyque’s L’Eau de Neroli begins with a refreshing burst of citrus, akin to a spring rain, accompanied by herbal greenness—invigorating, tart, and natural. As the gentle rain subsides, the fragrance blooms with neroli in full blossom. Delicate hints of soap wrap around the white petals, exuding a serene and ethereal beauty.
Mugler Cologne
Mugler Cologne evokes the clean scent of a newborn baby, with neroli oil lending a light and ethereal citrus fragrance, blended seamlessly with the freshness of green leaves. The fusion of cleanliness and intimacy is remarkable, embodying a sense of purity intertwined with closeness.
Petitgrain
Petitgrain essential oil is extracted from the leaves and young shoots of the bitter orange tree, making it one of the most common fragrances in high-end colognes. Besides its rich green leaf scent, it also carries hints of woody and floral notes. Unlike neroli oil, petitgrain lacks the bitter taste, making it more widely accepted and beloved.
Goutal Le Chevrefeuille
Goutal Le Chevrefeuille is an elegant and refreshing fragrance, blending floral notes with the fresh scent of petitgrain leaves. With its green and watery aroma, it feels like stepping into a green garden, occasionally accompanied by a gentle coolness, offering a delightful and comfortable experience.
Lemon Verbena
Lemon verbena is a shrub with slender leaves rich in essential oils, emitting a lemon-like scent when crushed, hence its classification within the citrus family. The name “Lemon Verbena” derives from this characteristic.
Miller et Bertaux Green, Green, Green and… Green
Miller et Bertaux Green, Green, Green and… Green is a very fresh fragrance, with lemon verbena bringing a cool breeze, leaving behind a slightly sour lemon fragrance and the freshness of green leaves. Each cluster of leaves rushes toward you, dotted with sporadic fruit sweetness, natural and wild, deserving of its name “Green, Green, Green and… Green.”
Issey Miyake A Scent by Issey Miyake
The bottle is filled with lush green plants, giving the impression of falling into a primeval jungle. However, due to the lemon verbena, this greenness is incredibly fresh and crisp, accompanied by the refreshing scent of fresh lemon, offering a pleasant aroma.
Conclusion:
In conclusion, the world of citrus perfumes offers a vibrant and diverse olfactory experience that transcends seasons and moods. From the zesty freshness of lemon and lime to the sweet tanginess of orange and grapefruit, each citrus note adds its own unique character to fragrances. Citrus perfumes not only uplift the spirit but also evoke memories of sun-kissed groves and summer evenings. Their versatility makes them a staple in every perfume collection, offering a refreshing burst of energy and vitality with every spritz.