The diverse array of plants in nature brings forth a myriad of scents, each offering a unique olfactory experience. But where do these fragrances in plants come from, and where can they go?
01 What are Essential Perfume Oil?
Essential oils are highly concentrated aromatic substances extracted from natural plants, derived from various parts such as flowers, leaves, roots, and stems. These oils can be extracted through methods such as steam distillation, solvent extraction, cold pressing, and CO2 extraction.
02 Why do Plants Produce Essential Perfume Oil?
Defense Against External Threats
In humid environments, essential oils serve as a defense mechanism against pathogens, pests, and even larger animals. Additionally, they facilitate rapid healing of damaged plant parts. Despite undergoing photosynthesis, plants still require protection from UV radiation and other harmful substances. In cases of forest fires, volatile essential oils aid in upward combustion, protecting seeds and roots for post-fire regeneration.
Facilitating Growth
Plant growth relies on hormonal balance, and excessive or deficient hormone levels can be detrimental. Essential oils act as signaling molecules, assisting in hormone transmission and regulation. Due to their small molecular size, they penetrate plant tissues, accelerating metabolism and facilitating the transport of oxygen and nutrients. Furthermore, essential oils trigger pheromone effects, attracting pollinators to aid in plant fertilization.
(Note: Pheromones are chemical substances used for communication, unlike hormones that are transported through the bloodstream to cells or tissues. Pheromones are released externally and affect other organisms within a limited range.)
03 Essential Perfume Oil Source: Glandular Trichomes
There are approximately 370,000 plant species in nature, but only a small fraction produce essential oils, and these plants contain glandular trichomes. As plants cannot move, their scents serve as a medium for transmitting information. The glandular trichomes of plants act as “storage units” for preserving scents. When plants are stimulated, these trichomes secrete scents to deter enemies and communicate with surrounding plants. The distribution of glandular trichomes varies for each plant species, leading to differences in the location of essential oil extraction, mainly found in petals, rhizomes, leaves, or tree bark. For instance, rose essential oil is extracted from petals, bergamot essential oil from fruit peels, and cardamom essential oil from seeds. By extracting glandular trichomes, we obtain the common plant essential oils.
Having Essential Oils ≠ Usable
The prerequisite for plant essential oil production is having glandular trichomes. However, the ability to extract essential oils does not guarantee their applicability in perfumes, which can be categorized as follows:
I. Fruits and Vegetables:
Low Essential Oil Content The scents of fruits and vegetables in perfumes are mostly artificially simulated. Among fruits, only citrus fruits from the Rutaceae family produce essential oils from their peels, such as lemons, oranges, and bergamots. These fruits typically have high water content, resulting in low essential oil content. Aromatic compounds are released briefly during the ripe stage and have a short shelf life, easily oxidizing along with fruit decay. The aromatic components of these fruit essential oils are water-soluble and challenging to extract by conventional methods, making them more suitable for juices. As for vegetables, their essential oil content is even lower and cannot be extracted at all.
II. Limited Quantity, High Cost
While some plants can yield essential oils, their oil content is often low, making the cost of extraction exorbitant, akin to “worth its weight in gold,” which is beyond the affordability of most individuals. Therefore, many perfume brands opt for synthetic fragrances from a cost perspective, with only a few niche luxury brands using these expensive natural essential oils. Scents of plants like violet, water lily, lotus, and peony are often simulated due to this reason.
III. Some Natural Essential Oils are Harmful to Human Health
Certain plants naturally contain toxins or pose carcinogenic risks, despite their captivating scents, posing significant health hazards to humans, thus being prohibited for use. For instance, essential oils from plants like bitter almond, camphor, and thuja contain varying degrees of toxicity, while calamus essential oil is carcinogenic.
IV. Artificial Synthesis of Nutty Fragrances
Fragrances resembling nuts, such as almond, walnut, and peanut, are generally synthesized artificially. This is because the oils obtained from these nut-bearing plants are not essential oils but rather vegetable oils. Vegetable oils are rich in unsaturated fatty acids and glycerol, which are moisturizing to the skin but do not readily evaporate, making them unsuitable for essential oil production. Additionally, the nutty fragrances in perfumes mimic the scent produced when nuts undergo “heat treatment,” such as roasting, boiling, or baking, differing from the natural scent of nuts. Therefore, nutty fragrances in perfumes can only be artificially simulated.
05. Common Natural Essential Oils
I. Floral Scents Rose:
Known as “liquid gold,” it takes approximately 4,000 roses to extract a single drop of essential oil, making it a rare choice for perfumes. Jasmine: There are two main types, grandiflorum jasmine and sambac jasmine. Lavender: Provence lavender is the most renowned, known for its mild and fragrant aroma with a hint of fresh grassiness. Orange Blossom: In perfumery, orange blossom refers to neroli oil, extracted through solvent extraction from orange blossom petals. It features predominantly floral notes, with hints of indole reminiscent of jasmine and the sweet freshness of grapes, exuding warmth and longevity.
II. Citrus Scents Bergamot:
Known for its fresh and tangy aroma, it is primarily produced in the Calabria region of Italy. Petitgrain: Though derived from citrus fruit, petitgrain essential oil is extracted from the leaves and twigs of bitter orange trees, offering a green, slightly bitter scent. Neroli Oil: Unlike neroli, neroli oil is steam-distilled from orange blossom petals, offering a slightly bitter, sour, and green aroma with soapy undertones and a sweet floral fragrance, retaining the herbal bitterness of bitter orange twigs and leaves. However, due to its citrus-like scent, it is classified as a citrus essential oil.
III. Woody Scents Cedarwood:
Presents a dry, woody aroma in perfumes, imparting a subtle, grounding sensation of comfort. Patchouli: Belonging to the mint family, it has a complex aroma with bitter undertones reminiscent of traditional Chinese medicine, featuring rich resinous and herbaceous green notes. Vetiver: Often used as a fixative, vetiver exhibits a dry woody aroma with fresh earthy undertones.
IV. Spicy Notes Pink Pepper:
Frequently found in modern rose perfumes, it boasts a complex scent profile with fruity and woody nuances, along with subtle hints of smoky wood. Saffron: Often used to evoke Arabian vibes, it offers a sweet-bitter aroma reminiscent of tobacco, with spicy and smoky undertones. Cardamom: Known for its masculine qualities, cardamom exudes a warm, spicy fragrance that complements woody notes perfectly.
06. The Future of Artificial Fragrances
Natural fragrances have shaped the history of perfumery but have also been constrained by various limitations of the real world. The development of artificial fragrances has broken the boundaries between scents and imagination, making high-end perfumes more accessible to the masses.
In the realm of gourmand perfumes, ethyl maltol can evoke the scents of caramel and chocolate, while in marine perfumes, Calone is responsible for mimicking the smell of the sea. These innovative fragrances stem from the imagination and creativity of people. With the assistance of scientific advancements, we can expect future perfumers to bring us even more surprises.
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