Introduction: Green notes perfume represent a highly distinctive olfactory category in the world of perfumes. These fragrances, characterized by a fresh and juicy scent reminiscent of green leaves, have become a phenomenon in the perfume industry. They embody the growing public desire for a connection to nature and a craving for freshness.
The term “green notes” or “green fragrance notes” broadly refers to various scents that capture the essence of green leaves or evoke the refreshing qualities of nature. It constitutes the core aromatic elements of perfumes categorized under the “green leaf notes” fragrance family.
There are numerous green-scented ingredients, and let’s delve into some of the most popular aromatic components.
White Pine
In the 1960s, the synthetic fragrance compound Hedione ((2-methyl-3-oxo-2-pentenyl) cyclopentaneacetate) was created, continuing the story of white pine fragrance. This synthetic compound not only possesses the iconic scent of white pine but also features a penetrating green note, an icy metallic sensation, and pineapple-like fruity characteristics.
The odor of Hedione is frequently likened to the smell of canned pineapple, a description that is quite accurate. Perfumers were aware of Hedione for over 70 years, but it gained true fame with the release of Davidoff Cool Water (containing approximately 3% Hedione).
Subsequently, numerous substances with similar olfactory impressions to Hedione were synthesized: Hedione ketone, cyclohedione, pharaone, spiranehedione, and other compounds typically containing a 1-decene-4-one fragment.
When instrumental analysis could reconstruct the chemical composition of white pine fragrance, researchers discovered various undecatrienes, particularly (3E,5Z)-undecatriene-1,3,5 (registered by Firmenich as Galbanolene Super), and 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine (known as Hedione pyrazine) constitute the green notes of white pine fragrance.
Pierre Balmain Vent Vert, perhaps the most famous green fragrance of the 20th century, was created by Germaine Celler. This “Green Wind” has been reissued multiple times and rightfully became a superstar in the modern perfume industry. The overwhelming bitterness and greenness in its fragrance come from an abundance of white pine essential oil. Before the advent of synthetic fragrances, white pine was one of the few green fragrance ingredients available to perfumers of that era.
Two years later, Dior Miss Dior was launched, incorporating a more moderate amount of white pine in its chypre composition.
Chanel No. 19 Eau de Parfum is another textbook example of a white pine fragrance, seamlessly blending white pine into a floral-woody composition.
Just mowed grass
The Green Symphony of C6 Wound Compounds
The scent of a freshly mowed lawn may be the greenest among all green tones— the invigorating fragrance of fresh grass without any interfering substances.
This scent comes from C6 wound compounds: when you tear off blades and crush them with your fingers, almost all plants start releasing these compounds. C6 wound compounds have 6 carbon atoms: cis-3-hexenal, trans-2-hexenal, cis and trans-3-hexenol, and ester derivatives of these alcohols.
Exploring the Palette of Hexenols in Green Fragrances
Extracting these substances from green plants using conventional methods is very difficult. Fortunately, synthesizing them is straightforward. Cis-3-hexenol (leaf alcohol), is a very common substance in green leaf fragrances, providing a fresh grassy scent. Pure cis-3-hexenol smells strong, even pungent. Its isomer, trans-3-hexenol, also has a strong scent, more bitter, with earthy and floral notes. The scent of trans-2-hexenol is somewhat like green banana peel, with a waxy and fruity green leaf aroma.
Esters and Aromas: Crafting Perfumes with Leaf Alcohols
Perfumers often use esters of leaf alcohols, such as cis-3-hexenol acetate. It has a more fruity aroma than its alcohols, with a distinct pear-apple fragrance. Ccarrying impressions of banana, sweet melon, and tropical fruits. Cis-3-hexenol-2-methyl-2-butenoyl ester (isoamyl acetate) in small amounts and high concentrations smells like wild mushrooms, an essential substance in creating the scent combination of “gardenia flower.” Cis-3-hexenol isoamyl ester has a green apple-like tone, and it is also used to construct some “berry” scents, especially the fragrance of “blueberries.”
Beyond Green: The Diverse Aromas of Fragrance Components
Cis-3-hexenol salicylate (methyl salicylate) combines the common green and floral tones of salicylates. It has a strange metallic scent and can create a “concrete-like” aroma. This is why it is so popular in the current trend of mineral fragrances.
Tom Ford:
An important component of Tom Ford’s Soleil Neige is Karmaflor, a captive molecule of Hedione, which has a structure very similar to cis-3-hexenol salicylate. Cyclohexene derivatives are similar, especially Trivertal (lilial), iso-citral, and Vertofix (vertoliff).
These substances have extremely strong odors, with aldehydic characteristics and subtle notes of immature citrus peel. If defined by color, these substances are quite green, with a hint of blue, personally speaking. There is some confusion about coumarin. The scent of coumarin is often described as the smell of freshly cut hay, but in reality, the scent of coumarin has little to do with green tones. It is sweet (especially at high concentrations), almost like almond paste candy, accompanied by subtle scents of vanilla, almond, and angelica. When greatly diluted, coumarin loses some sweetness and produces a medicinal, spicy, and slightly tobacco-like character of dry leaves and semi-fresh hay.
Peppermint’s Resurgence
It is said that due to the strong association between peppermint and toothpaste, perfumers have avoided distinct peppermint notes in fragrances for a long time. However, the recent trend of green notes has challenged this stereotype, and now you can smell sharp peppermint tones in many intriguing perfumes. Different varieties of peppermint exhibit significant olfactory differences, and it has a close relative: perilla. In many substances, peppermint green notes coexist with subtle medicinal camphor undertones.
Violet Leaves
Violet leaf alcohol and violet leaf aldehyde (2.6-nonadienal) constitute the majority of the aroma of violet leaves and their essential oils. Leaves aldehyde is also a crucial component of the legendary fragrance base Parmantheme developed by Firmenich.
Among the compounds in the scent composition of violet leaves, one of the most important is ionone (methyl ionone). Perfumers have known about the existence of this substance for almost 120 years, but it gained popularity only after the release of Dior Fahrenheit.
In the original formula of Fahrenheit, ionone was present in concentrations as high as 0.6%, considering its intense aroma (0.6% concentration is already quite high). The smell of ionone is green and dry, with strong penetrative qualities, evoking images of violet leaves and cucumber slices. It has a very natural scent, even though it doesn’t exist in nature. Ionone has a unique triple bond, specifically a carbon-carbon triple bond. To me, it has a metallic gasoline mushroom flavor.
Methyl ionone shares similarities with ionone. To distinguish between them, one must rely on the more pronounced scent details of methyl ionone, including shy grass, strawberries, and sweet melon. The chemical structure of ionone is highly unstable, and at high concentrations, it can cause skin irritation, leading to its prohibition in the perfume industry in the 1960s. However, ionone experienced significant success in the late 1980s and early 1990s after the release of Fahrenheit.
Ionone has since been replaced by new ionone esters, methyl decenol, 1,1-dimethoxy-2-nonene, violet acetylene (which contains a carbon-carbon triple bond but is not an ester), violet nitrile, violet fragrance blend (a primary component in IFF MOC substitute base), green floralene, and to some extent, cis-5-octen-1-ol. These substitutes aim to capture the essence of ionone while adhering to evolving industry regulations. The fragrance landscape continues to evolve, offering intriguing scents that push the boundaries of traditional compositions.
Vegetable Green
Fresh green vegetables (bell peppers, peas, green beans, asparagus, etc.) have their unique olfactory characteristics due to the presence of a class of highly aromatic nitrogen-containing compounds – pyrazines (especially alkylthiopyrazines).
A touch of 2-isobutylthiazole can bring a distinctive tomato leaf fragrance to perfumes. Another nitrogen-containing compound with green notes is phenylpyridine (CorpsRacine), exceptionally potent and stable, though not commonly used. It exhibits a clean and fresh green character, along with impressions of bitterness, vegetable notes (bell pepper), and a metallic touch (golden lotus flower).
Fig Leaves
Isobutylquinoline, a nitrogen-containing compound, is used by Olivia Giacobetti in Diptyque Philosykos to create the scent combination of “fig leaves.” It is also present in many other perfumes. In her first creation of a green fig perfume, Premier Figuier by L’Artisan Parfumeur, Olivia Giacobetti used a substance different from isobutylquinoline – grékolide dioxolane. Bertrand Duchaufour also used it in Nomenclature shi-sō.
From a chemical perspective, grékolide dioxolane is a type of acetal known as Massoia aldehyde. Generally, acetals have a fragrance similar to aldehydes but are softer and more streamlined. However, Massoia aldehyde and grékolide dioxolane are unique. Grékolide dioxolane is very soft, with hints of rose and lactone details, carrying a slightly woody tone. On the other hand, Massoia aldehyde is much stronger, more bitter, fresher, and can evoke thoughts of nutmeg.
Both compounds have a bitter impression reminiscent of ivy leaves and can be used to create the scent combination of “ivy.” Massoia aldehyde and grékolide dioxolane are extracted from sassafras terpenes (derived from eucalyptus essential oil).
Fresh grass aldehyde, another green aromatic compound with details of “aldehydic metallic and citrusy waxy,” is synthesized from linalool (extracted from sweet orange essential oil).
Floral Greens
Certain compounds, exemplified by ethyl isobutyrate, combine the foundational green notes with a floral impression. Apart from the evident floral details, it also carries the scent impression of grapefruit and rhubarb, which has gained popularity in recent times.
Ethyl isobutyrate was widely used in the mid-20th century, featuring in perfumes such as Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps, Carven Ma Griffe, Miss Dior, Jean Couturier Coriandre, and Gres Cabochard. Its resurgence occurred with the release of Mugler Aura and Comme des Garçons Chlorophyl Gardenia by Rei Kawakubo.
The reason green notes are indispensable in so many floral scents is that they inject a certain freshness and realism into perfumes. For instance, in hyacinth fragrances, green notes are an integral part. Some substances, like phenylacetaldehyde, possess the bitter green characteristics of hyacinth, determining whether the hyacinth scent is natural.
Besides phenylacetaldehyde, there are its acetal, phenylacetate; ethers (phenylethyl isobutyl ether, methyl phenethyl ether, pollen/”green ether”); esters (ethyl cinnamate); aldehydes (cis-3-Hexenal); alcohols (phenethyl alcohol), often with a phenethyl component.
Many green notes contain subtle abstract floral impressions, such as rose ether, methyl dihydrojasmonate, 2-heptylpyridine, newroketone (alpha-ionone), and pine oil esters.
Green+
In most substances, green notes are often accompanied by other fragrances. (The content in parentheses represents the fragrance and flavor company to which the substance belongs.)
- Isofreshal (Innospec): Aldehydic green notes with a hint of metallic undertones.
- Alicate (Firmenich): Green notes combined with rose, rhubarb, lily, and banana.
- Clarycet: Grassy green notes accompanied by sage, saffron, and tea aromas.
- Gyrane: Minty-spicy-vegetal green notes with hints of geranium.
- Myroxide: Sweet lavender-metallic green notes with nuances of sage and pear.
- Mintonat: Spicy-sweet-mint-lavender composition.
- Neoproxen: Smells like green citrus pie.
- Romilat: Chamomile green notes with a touch of rose.
- Centifolether: Waxy rose green notes.
- Syvertal: Metallic green notes with the scents of chrysanthemum, gardenia, and a radish note.
- Citrowanil B: Fresh aldehydic green notes, grassy citrus tones, with sweet-spicy nuances resembling star anise.
- Cortex Aldehyde: Ozone green notes with hints of hyacinth and leather.
- Cyclacet and Jasmacyclene: Woody green notes combining fir and licorice.
- Verdalia A: Grassy green notes with a surprising watermelon twist.
These substances, along with similar compounds, serve as perfect bridges between the green notes and other fragrances in the composition of perfumes. Observing perfumers’ creativity in utilizing various materials to craft an extraordinary green fragrance is truly fascinating, given the multitude of aromatic ingredients at their disposal!
The Branddecant database features numerous green fragrances. Here are a few interesting leafy-green fragrances to share with everyone:
