As we step into the enchanting world of perfumes, we are often captivated by an array of intoxicating fragrances. This mystical allure emanates from the delicate construction of fragrance notes, resembling musical notes orchestrating a symphony in our senses. Fragrance notes are not merely components of a perfume; they constitute an art of olfactory composition. Through the artful blending of various aromatic elements, they sketch out endless emotional tapestries. This article delves into the realm of perfume fragrance notes, unraveling the mysteries behind them, and exploring how to select and appreciate these scents. Let us together immerse ourselves in the wondrous realm of perfumery.
Concept: 4 Major Categories and 14 Subcategories of Perfume Fragrance
Before delving into perfume fragrance notes, we must introduce the Perfume Wheel depicted below. Michael Edwards, through the study of over 40,000 perfumes, redefined the Perfume Wheel. This not only accurately positions fragrance notes but also interprets the relationships between them. The wheel categorizes fragrances into 4 major and 14 minor notes, a classification widely embraced in the industry.
This serves as the foundational navigation for understanding fragrance notes. You can click on the section you are interested in to directly jump to that part of fragrance content.
| Fragrance Notes | |||||||||||||
| Floral | Ambery | Woody | Fresh | ||||||||||
| Fruity Floral | Floral | Soft Floral | Oriental Floral | Soft Ambery | Ambery | Woody Ambery | Woody | Mossy Woods | Dry Woods | Aromatic Fougère | Citrus | Aquatic | Green |
Floral Fragrance Notes:
As the top note, floral fragrances immediately captivate. Many renowned perfumes feature floral notes as the main axis, commonly used in women’s perfumes. They evoke the scent of freshly picked flowers or powdery fragrances, offering a soothing and calming effect.
| Floral Subtype | Description | Representative Fragrance Ingredients |
|---|---|---|
| Fruity Floral | Sweet and delicious | Peach, pear, apple, sweet orange, bergamot, berries |
| Floral | Fresh and floral | Lily, jasmine, lavender, chamomile |
| Soft Floral | Gentle powdery, milky aroma | Rose, iris |
| Oriental Floral | Floral with a hint of spice | Orange blossom, carnation |
【Fruity Fragrance】
A very intuitive fragrance note, fruity fragrances in perfumes come in various forms, including red fruits, yellow fruits, aquatic notes, and even some synthetically created fruity accords, such as the successful peach aldehyde (C14) in Guerlain Mitsouko. Fruity scents can manifest in various ways in perfumes, and some entry-level niche perfume brands have introduced excellent fruity fragrances.
PS: Do not confuse fruity fragrances with citrus notes; the latter comes from citrus fruits.
● Representative fragrances: Tom Ford Lost Cherry, Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo – Fico di Amalfi, Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay, Giorgio Armani My Way
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【Floral Fragrance】
Different flowers can express different feminine qualities, with strong versatility. They can be classified into single floral fragrances and bouquet floral fragrances. Single floral fragrances focus on one flower, while bouquet floral fragrances are a combination of different flowers. In terms of scent, floral fragrances can be broadly categorized into powdery floral, white floral, yellow floral, exotic floral, spicy floral, and anise floral, suitable for women of all ages, giving a sense of delicacy, romance, lightness, and elegance.
Representative fragrances: Frederic Malle Rose Tonnerre, Diptyque Do Son, Jo Malone Honeysuckle & Davana, Chanel Chance Eau Tendre
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【Soft Floral Fragrance】
Adding an “aldehyde” chemical component to the floral fragrance creates a soft floral scent. Due to its diverse types, it has a versatile impact on the fragrance. The most common effect is to make the scent crystal clear, often referred to as a strong powdery fragrance, which is a favorite among straight men for their girlfriends’ perfume.
Representative fragrances: Chanel No.5, Dior J’adore, Gucci Bloom, Estée Lauder White Linen
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【Oriental Floral Fragrance】
Fresh flowers combined with resins, spices, or vanilla, simmered together to create a captivating and spicy aroma. Oriental floral fragrances are often composed with flowers like osmanthus, tuberose, tiare flower, or carnation, suitable for strong and mysterious female protagonists.
Representative fragrances: Penhaligon’s The Coveted Duchess Rose, Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady, Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin, Tom Ford Soleil Blanc
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The Coveted Duchess Rose
La Fille de Berlin
Ambery Notes:
Ambery fragrances resemble grass, spices, or dry resinous scents. Suitable for unisex fragrances, particularly popular in the evening or winter. The rich aroma exudes luxury, often combined with ambery or sweet notes, providing an impression of exotic allure and sensual charm. (In the latest version of the Fragrance Wheel, Oriental notes have been adjusted to Ambery notes, considering market feedback that the term “Oriental” may carry racial undertones.)
| Amber Subtype | Scent Description | Representative Fragrance Ingredients |
|---|---|---|
| Soft Amber | Subtle floral notes, infused with incense resin and warm spices | Clove, myrrh |
| Amber | Sweet and warm scent | Cinnamon, vanilla, sandalwood, musk, fennel |
| Woody Amber | Earthy and grounded, blending spicy and sweet notes | Patchouli, vanilla bean |
【Soft Amber】
Crafted with a base of agarwood and amber, complemented by warm spicy notes or fresh florals, this fragrance exudes a rich, sweet aroma reminiscent of dense and flowing resinous wood. Perfect for autumn and winter, it imparts a sense of stability and sophistication.
Representative fragrances: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, Tom Ford Black Orchid, Byredo Gypsy Water, Prada Amber Pour Homme.
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【Amber】
The amber blend embodies an abstract concept, often achieved using frankincense or myrrh. It presents a soft powdery feel, skillfully combining spicy and sweet elements to evoke a subtly mysterious yet tranquil sensation. Full of exotic richness, it feels gentle, akin to being in a sunlit lakeside garden.
Representative fragrances: Hermes Eau des Merveilles, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre.
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【Woody Amber】
Spicy amber notes intertwine with intense woody elements like agarwood, sandalwood, or potent spices. The result is a blend that is both spicy and grounded, warm yet not overpowering.
Representative fragrances: Tom Ford Oud Wood, Tom Ford Amber Absolute, Jo Malone Amber & Patchouli.
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Woody Fragrance Notes:
Emitting a unique coniferous or woody aroma with a hint of bitterness, these fragrances are warm and luxurious. Using incense-like scents such as sandalwood and labdanum, combined with dry woody notes like cedar, helps extend the longevity of the fragrance, providing a stable and calming sensation.
| Woody Note | Description | Representative Fragrance |
|---|---|---|
| Woody Note | Aromatic scent | Cedarwood, Pine, Sandalwood, Vetiver |
| Mossy Woody Note | Sweet, smooth, with earthy undertones | Oakmoss, Amber |
| Dry Woody Note | Slowly wafting smoky aroma, mixed with leather notes | Patchouli, Musk, Iris |
【Woody】
Woody notes predominantly express stability, calmness, and at times, a warm temperament. Composed of materials like wood, pine needles, and vetiver, among others, these notes are diverse, showcasing different fragrances of various woods. With a long-lasting scent, they often serve as the mainstay throughout the perfume’s top, middle, and base notes.
Representative fragrances: Hermes Terre d’Hermes, Tom Ford Oud Wood, L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer, Le Labo Santal 33.
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【Mossy Woody】
Also known as mossy woods, oakmoss forms the essence of chypre notes. When blended with woody scents and the bitter medicinal aroma of patchouli, it creates a damp, melancholic forest with hints of earthiness. It carries an aloofness, avoiding attempts to please, distinct from floral, woody, or leathery scents. Chypre notes are more about a fragrance structure, divided into classical and modern categories.
Representative fragrances: Guerlain Mitsouko, Miss Dior, Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia.
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【Dry Woody】
Centered around scents reminiscent of cowhide, deerskin, often combined with tobacco, honey, and various woody elements, dry woody notes exude a classic, serene, and opulent aura. These notes are predominantly found in men’s fragrances and feature various styles, ranging from velvety soft floral leathers to intense smoky leather, each with its unique subtleties. Not recommended for beginners.
Representative fragrances: Tom Ford Ombré Leather, Le Labo Cuir 28 Dubai, Tom Ford Ebene Fume.
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Fresh Fragrance Notes:
Noted for their refreshing vitality, these fragrances often serve as the top note to stimulate energy. Grass, citrus, and marine notes are common, particularly in men’s perfumes. The addition of spicy notes enhances their vigorous charm, and their fragrant, slightly intoxicating aroma pairs well with lively fruity scents.
| Fresh Scent Profile | Description | Representative Fragrances |
|---|---|---|
| Floral Fresh | Clean and fresh scent of green grass, blended with lavender or woody notes | Clary sage, mint |
| Citrus Blend | Energetic and vibrant fragrance, combining orange, lemon, lemongrass | Orange, lemon, lemongrass, citronella |
| Aquatic Harmony | A watery scent reminiscent of sea waves or dew, mixed with marine notes | Cucumber, sea pine |
| Green Leaf | The aroma of freshly cut grass or crushed green leaves | Eucalyptus, joyful clary sage, violet leaf |
【Citrus Notes】
Citrus notes belong to a broad category of ingredients, encompassing essential oils from sour fruits associated with citrus, such as bergamot, grapefruit, and others. Additionally, some of the oldest components in perfumery, found in spices and resins, are also part of this category. Citrus notes blend seamlessly with other ingredients, offering a bold yet not long-lasting fragrance that provides an excellent introduction to a perfume. Imagine strolling through an orchard filled with citrus, lemons, grapefruits, and oranges—a scent that is sunny, vibrant, lively, and uplifting, bringing joy to the senses.
Representative Fragrances: Diptyque Oyedo, Hermès Un Jardin sur le Nil, Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin, Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine
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【Fresh Chypre Notes】
Chypre fragrance notes include citrus, lavender, geranium, oakmoss, woods, and spicy or peppery ingredients. Picture carrying a homemade sachet of spices into a botanical garden filled with lavender fields and trees. The intricate blend of various ingredients creates a unique sensation, and chypre notes, being complex and versatile, are commonly embraced, especially by women who enjoy wearing masculine scents.
Representative Fragrances: Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt, Dior Sauvage, Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, Chanel Bleu de Chanel
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【Green Notes】
“Let’s start from the meadow. A brand new morning. Leaves, trees, and even the flowing sap of trees. Green notes offer you a moment to catch your breath, with scents ranging from leafy greens to grass. They can be combined with floral or herbal elements like tomato vine, basil, and mint, resulting in fragrances with a sharp, vivid, and sometimes ambiguous profile. Fresh and refined, these perfumes often exhibit a dual nature of clarity and mystery.”
Representative Fragrances: Creed Silver Mountain Water, Diptyque L’Ombre Dans L’Eau, Diptyque – Philosykos, Hermes – Un Jardin Sur Le Toit
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【Aquatic Notes】
Aquatic notes possess a distinctive synthetic style, with their ethereal and watery quality primarily derived from Calone, a synthetic compound. Its scent is reminiscent of freshness, greenness, and the ocean, often accompanied by unique undertones of oysters and melons. Effectively simulating the smell of water, aquatic notes evoke images of sea breezes, rainwater, and the sea, all while maintaining a minimalist and modern feel. Aquatic notes can be further categorized into marine and freshwater fragrances, with no strict boundary between the two.
Representative Fragrances: Issey Miyake L’eau d’Issey, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio, Hermes Un Jardin En Mediterranee, Bvlgari Aqva Pour Homme
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By understanding the four main categories and fourteen subcategories of perfumery, we gain a better appreciation for the nuances and distinctions among different fragrances. Floral notes, as part of the Flower category, allure with the fresh scent of flowers, suitable for conveying femininity and a soothing atmosphere. Amber notes exude luxury and sensuality, making them ideal for evening wear or colder seasons. Woody notes emanate a unique coniferous or woody aroma, providing a sense of stability and grounding. Fresh notes emphasize a refreshing and invigorating quality, often employed in men’s fragrances to evoke vitality.
Therefore, when selecting a fragrance, personal preferences aside, understanding the classifications and characteristics of fragrance notes can aid in finding a signature scent that resonates. Each individual’s skin and natural scent are unique, making the choice of perfume a thoughtful process—feel free to be captivated, but exercise caution in making impulsive decisions. We suggest to buy the samples of perfume from Branddecant firstly， then go ahead with bootle perfumes.