Many believe that Jo Malone is the epitome of the British salon fragrance, but I beg to differ. I prefer Penhaligon’s perfume. While Jo Malone excels in its fresh and versatile traits for daily wear, it lacks the depth and subtlety needed to embody traditional British elegance fully.
When we think of British style, what comes to mind? Is it the conservative and reserved gentlemanly demeanor, or the elegance and gentleness of a sophisticated lady? In any case, the English style differs significantly from the passionate and bold French style. Breaking away from the mainstream dominance of French perfume brands, exploring English-style fragrances can provide a refreshing experience.
In my opinion, the brand that best represents England is Penhaligon’s. Established in 1870, Penhaligon’s boasts two long-standing Royal Warrants, with a clientele that includes historical figures and royal nobility such as Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth II, Winston Churchill, Princess Diana, and Oscar Wilde. If you appreciate British culture, value tradition and depth, and enjoy that somewhat old-fashioned yet elegantly noble feeling, Penhaligon’s is the brand for you. When you catch a whiff of Penhaligon’s perfume, you’ll think, “Ah, this is it.”
Characteristics of Penhaligon’s Perfumes:
The most obvious trait of Penhaligon’s fragrances is “gentleness.” This quality is evident in both men’s and women’s perfumes. Men’s fragrances exude a gentlemanly and gentle charm without being effeminate, while women’s fragrances are gentle, restrained, and elegantly dignified.
Penhaligon’s may sound somewhat old-fashioned, but it is far from it. The brand maintains a lovely “reserved” quality that doesn’t compromise on its attractiveness to the opposite sex. While externally subtle, a subtle seductive quality simmers beneath the surface, occasionally revealing itself.
The second characteristic of Penhaligon’s is “maturity.” This maturity is not about age-related dullness but a knowledge, politeness, and sophistication that emanate from the perfume. You’ll gradually discover a sense of English cultural heritage in the scent. Falling in love with Penhaligon’s maturity and elegance, you may become weary of overly sweet, straightforward, and dull perfumes that actively cater to mainstream preferences. Maturity is a cultivated family habit, and attempts to imitate it often fall short; fragrances are no exception.
Beautiful skin is common, but an interesting soul is rare. Penhaligon’s perfumes never seek to cater to consumers by sacrificing their individuality for a visually appealing facade. The brand has maintained a small, niche, and high-quality salon fragrance image. It has never deliberately manufactured bestsellers but has naturally produced a plethora of outstanding works, each seemingly narrating a story, a story about England.
For such a discreet brand, in the era of perfumes today, we are going to do something less discreet to it… The following will bring you a comprehensive review of Penhaligon’s, offering the most straightforward and honest assessments, revealing what this British fragrance brand really smells like!
Stay tuned for detailed reviews on each of Penhaligon’s 50 fragrances.
Portraits Penhaligon’s Perfume
The Tragedy of Lord George
Fragrance Family: Oriental Woody
Gender: Male
The Tragedy of Lord George unfolds with the aromatic notes of oriental woods, portraying the elegance and poise of the masculine essence. Opening with rich hints of tobacco and spirits, it transports you to the ambiance of an old-fashioned library, emanating the profound essence of an English gentleman. The fragrance gradually transitions into a blend of cedarwood and ebony, reminiscent of strolling into the depths of a forest, exuding the natural resilience and tranquility. Finally, the soft tones of tonka bean gently conclude the entire narrative, akin to an undiscovered tragedy, captivating every sensitive gentleman.
The Revenge Of Lady Blanche
Fragrance Family: Floral Fruity
Gender: Female
The Revenge Of Lady Blanche narrates a tale of vengeance through the prism of floral and fruity accords, outlining the strength and elegance of femininity. The perfume unfolds with a burst of refreshing citrus and bergamot, akin to a gentle breeze in early spring, invoking a sense of tranquility. The following day, the bloom of lily engulfs the surroundings with a noble floral essence, showcasing the regality of femininity. Finally, the intoxicating blend of sandalwood and vanilla lingers, emanating a long-lasting and profound fragrance, reminiscent of Lady Blanche’s victorious smile after a successful revenge, enchanting all who encounter it.
Roaring Radcliff
Fragrance Family: Oriental
Gender: Male
Roaring Radcliff paints a portrait of masculine vigor with an oriental fragrance profile. Opening with robust tobacco and grapefruit, it transports you to an intense tobacco countryside. The perfume gradually mellows into a luxurious blend of leather and amber, akin to a gentleman weathered by storms, exuding resilient vitality. Finally, the scent mellows further, interweaving oakwood and tonka bean, imparting warmth and a lasting imprint to the overall fragrance, crafting a commanding scent.
Much Ado About The Duke
Fragrance Family: Floral
Gender: Female
Much Ado About The Duke traces the delicacy and nobility of femininity with a floral fragrance. Opening with a fresh encounter of citrus and blackcurrant, it feels like a stroll in a blooming garden. The fragrance transitions into the elegant blooming of jasmine and rose, mirroring the unique allure of women. Finally, the gentle notes of oakwood and amber envelop the overall scent, providing a perfect punctuation to this narrative about women, leaving a captivating impression.
The Coveted Duchess Rose
Fragrance Family: Floral Fruity
Gender: Female
The Coveted Duchess Rose unfolds with a floral fruity accord, exuding a delicate and elegant aura for women. The perfume opens with fresh notes of citrus and orange blossom, akin to a spring breeze. Subsequently, the fragrance quietly blossoms with the scent of roses, outlining the nobility of femininity. Finally, the warm notes of white musk and amber envelop the overall narrative, much like a desirable rose, radiating an enchanting fragrance.
The Uncompromising Sohan
Fragrance Family: Oriental
Gender: Male
The Uncompromising Sohan illustrates the tenacity and determination of masculinity with an oriental fragrance. Opening with the unique blend of coffee and vanilla, it resembles a cup of rich coffee. The fragrance gradually transitions into the mix of pepper and frankincense, outlining the distinctive charm of men. Finally, the profound notes of orange blossom and amber provide a perfect conclusion to the overall narrative, crafting a fragrance that exudes bold determination.
Clandestine Clara
Fragrance Family: Oriental
Gender: Female
Clandestine Clara, with an oriental fragrance, brings a mysterious and distinctive scent to women. Opening with the harmonious blend of vanilla and orange blossom, it feels like a gentle melody. The fragrance gradually mellows into a mix of osmanthus and amber, akin to stepping into a mysterious garden. Finally, the scent, like a gentle breeze, leaves behind the warm traces of oakwood and musk, providing a fulfilling conclusion to this narrative about women.
The Bewitching Yasmine
Fragrance Family: Oriental
Gender: Male
The Blazing Mr Sam ignites the senses with its oriental composition, symbolizing the fervor and daring of masculinity. The opening is a striking fusion of vanilla and pepper, reminiscent of a roaring blaze. As the fragrance develops, cedar and amber emerge, evoking images of flames dancing in the darkness. Ultimately, the scent settles into a captivating blend of sandalwood and tobacco, akin to smoldering embers that leave a lasting impression. In this olfactory narrative of masculinity, The Blazing Mr Sam adds a distinct and unforgettable punctuation.
The Ruthless Countess Dorothea
Fragrance Family: Oriental
Gender: Female
The Ruthless Countess Dorothea by Penhaligon’s is an enticing blend that captures the essence of feminine allure. Opening with a zesty combination of ginger, cinnamon, and bergamot, it sets a bold and spicy tone. The heart reveals a captivating mix of beeswax, smoky lapsang souchong tea, and vibrant clary sage, adding depth and complexity. Finally, the fragrance settles into a luxurious blend of white wine, vanilla, and creamy coumarin, leaving a warm and spicy trail that is both alluring and unforgettable.
Monsieur Beauregard
Fragrance Family: Spicy Aromatic
Gender: Male
Monsieur Beauregard by Penhaligon’s is a sophisticated and spicy aromatic fragrance that exudes masculine charm. The opening is bright and zesty with notes of lemon and pink pepper, adding a refreshing twist. As the scent develops, it reveals a warm and inviting blend of frankincense, iris root, and cinnamon, creating a sense of elegance and refinement. Finally, the fragrance settles into a rich and woody base of sandalwood, tonka bean, and patchouli, leaving a lasting impression of sophistication and allure.
Changing Constance
Fragrance Family: Gourmand Oriental
Gender: Female
Changing Constance by Penhaligon’s is a delectable gourmand oriental fragrance that evokes warmth and sweetness. The opening delights the senses with spicy cardamom and sweet bell pepper, creating a mouth-watering sensation. As the fragrance unfolds, notes of caramel and salt add a rich and indulgent touch, reminiscent of sweet treats. Finally, the scent settles into a comforting blend of vanilla, creamy coumarin, and tobacco, enveloping the wearer in a cozy and inviting aroma.
The Blazing Mr Sam
Fragrance Family: Spicy Woody
Gender: Male
The Blazing Mr Sam by Penhaligon’s is a bold and spicy woody fragrance that exudes confidence and masculinity. The opening is fiery and intense with notes of cardamom, cinnamon, and saffron, creating a powerful first impression. As the scent evolves, hints of pepper and cumin add depth and complexity, while a touch of tobacco and creamy cedarwood linger in the background. Finally, the fragrance settles into a warm and woody base of sandalwood, tonka bean, and guaiacwood, leaving a trail of seduction in its wake.
Gentlemen’s Penhaligon’s Perfume
Blenheim Bouquet
A combination of lemon and pine, Blenheim Bouquet presents a refreshing blend where juicy lemon smoothes out the sharp edges of pine needles, imbuing it with a hint of classicism. The underlying lavender and musk reveal its subtle yet intriguing essence of sophistication.
English Fern
In the air of rainy London, the fragrance of damp earth fills the senses. Rainwater revitalizes the moss in the corners, emitting a spicy green aroma. Passersby brush past you, leaving behind a scent reminiscent of old-fashioned soap, exuding a quintessential British vibe.
Quercus
Though its name may sound old-fashioned, Quercus is anything but outdated. Bursting with zesty lemon water, it complements the sweetness of lily of the valley and jasmine with a clean, fresh aroma. The rustic oakmoss, enhanced by the lemony touch, exudes a uniquely refreshing scent tailored for men.
Endymion
A classic cult favorite, Endymion embodies the essence of a gentleman with its traditional lavender accords, concealing a subtle yet captivating allure underneath. Like the mythical Greek youth, it envelops you in a gentle and lingering embrace.
Endymion Concentré
An upgrade from the original, Endymion Concentré transitions to an EDP with a moderate increase in longevity. Enhanced with suede in the heart notes, it exudes a more mature vibe. The addition of incense in the base notes adds depth, transforming the once delicate youth into a more substantial presence.
Opus 1870
Warm and clean pepper ignites the hearth in the dark of night, emitting an elegant and refined gentlemanly scent. Opus 1870 gradually releases its gentle embrace, allowing you to feel the tender touch of the night in the darkness.
Sartorial
A blend of stacked linen and cotton fabrics, lubricating machine oil, and slightly rusted old scissors… Mixed with a faint soapy scent in the air, it feels like stepping into a vintage tailor shop.
Douro
A juxtaposition of freshness and maturity, with a refreshing burst of lemon in the opening notes. The mid notes transition into a predominantly lavender-based fougère structure, reminiscent of a well-groomed mature gentleman.
Bayolea
With a slightly bitter opening, there’s a sense of restraint. The blend of lemongrass and neroli oil is both clean and distinctive, leaving a lasting impression without being overt. Overall, it exudes a sophisticated British elite vibe.
Blasted Heath
The scent of the sea is salty and authentic, giving a nearly icy, refreshing sensation. Seaweed seems stranded on the shore, with the cold wind drying out its remnants, stripping away the essence of life, leaving only desolation.
Hammam Bouquet
Born in 1872, this vintage fragrance draws inspiration from luxurious Turkish baths. The sharp, powerful aroma of lavender is infused with moist, powdery notes amidst the steam. Rose and sandalwood add a gentle, soothing base.
Ladies Penhaligon’s Perfume
Lily of the Valley
A fresh scent of lily of the valley, with the natural greenness of the flowers. After a heavy rain, the fragrance of lilies of the valley covers the hills, painting the sky with a light green hue.
Gardenia
The scent of fresh gardenia is pure and elegant, with a hint of vintage powdery notes. Occasionally, hints of tuberose and jasmine permeate, adding a touch of versatility to the gardenia fragrance.
Bluebell
Perhaps the name bluebell sounds gentle and romantic, but in reality, bluebells can be considered the fierce beasts of the floral world. This fragrance captures the essence of true bluebells, thus it is quite spicy and intense, yet at lower concentrations, it reveals another kind of charm.
Orange Blossom
She’s like a charming little fairy, clear and natural, yet with a hint of mature femininity. Fresh and tender orange blossoms are sprayed with a touch of orange juice, emitting a juicy citrus fragrance. The backdrop of jasmine and tuberose also adds fullness to the floral scent.
Equinox Bloom
In the blooming garden of spring, enjoying delicious desserts and English afternoon tea with a few close friends, a sunny spring day quietly emerges.
Malabah
This fragrance blends oriental spices to create a refreshing and youthful composition. The spices, amidst the fresh citrus notes, exude a crisp and distinctive character, while the floral accords that unfold in this atmosphere become youthful and vibrant.
Artemisia
Penhaligon’s star creation, gentle to the core just like its name suggests. You’ll be pulled into a realm of tenderness by the sweet notes of peach, then embraced by the powdery floral scents, gradually escaping from this world.
Ellenisia
The scent of gardenia isn’t very prominent; instead, jasmine steals the spotlight. Jasmine, soaked in syrupy sweetness, exudes the sugary aroma of cane sugar and honey.
Eau Sans Pareil
Fruits and flowers soaked in cream and syrup, coated with the deep hues of labdanum. The rich floral scent then imbues the woody base with intense and varied colors.
Blasted Bloom
This is a sunny holiday destination where fresh sea breeze blows along the coast all year round. The lush green leaves and sweet floral notes accentuate the vitality of this scenery.
Peoneve
A peony garden after the rain, where the showers awaken the tender green shoots. The air is filled with greenery and moisture, making the peony fragrance exceptionally fresh and vibrant.
Luna
Luna, a moon goddess brimming with passion and radiance, emanates a rich lemony fragrance. She leads you down a moonlit path in the dark woods, guiding you to a verdant and tangy rose garden at the end.
Lavandula
Very close to natural lavender essential oil, the scent is clean, delicate, and soothing. It feels as if you’re gazing at the stars while lying in a lavender field, experiencing its magical calming effects.
Savoy Steam
Inspired by the Turkish baths on Jermyn Street in London, the scent of rose petals steams along with the mist in the bathroom, diffusing into the air.
Iris Prima
The fragrance of iris is powdery and delicate, harmonized with jasmine to create a fresh and elegant aroma. The combination of floral and leather notes is graceful and refined, reminiscent of a long-haired beauty in leather, exuding a charming allure beneath her graceful posture.
Elisabethan Rose
The Japanese version of Elisabethan Rose combines aldehydes with rose, exuding elegance with a hint of austerity. The new version of rose appears younger and sweeter, filled with the delicious flavors of almond and hazelnut, while transitioning into warm woody notes in the base.
Cornubia
Cornubia boasts a heavy, powdery feel of tuberose, which, although somewhat stifling, also exudes a remarkable presence and complexity. The middle and base notes of white flowers become warmer as a result, transforming from a transparent floral scent into a warm, sweet fragrance.
Unisex Penhaligon’s Perfume
Castile
A fresh blend of orange blossom and bitter orange leaves creates an instant visual of white petals against tender green leaves. Initially, the green notes take precedence, gradually transitioning from a tangy freshness to a warm floral scent, evoking a sense of ease and brightness.
Zizonia
Lavender becomes clean and refreshing under the stimulation of ginger. In the middle notes, there’s a bitterness reminiscent of herbal medicine, as if a barrel of flower petals were poured into a vat of medicine, intertwining floral fragrance with bitterness, creating an indescribable fireworks-like atmosphere.
Juniper Sling
Penhaligon’s star creation, much like real-world gin, exudes a refreshing and brisk quality. The vibrant greenery emits a cool fragrance, akin to ice glinting under the sunlight.
Belgravia Chypre
Amidst the ambiance of a chypre scent, sipping on a cup of black tea infused with fruits, its sweetness remains subtle and gentle. The occasional burst of raspberry flavor expresses its cheerful demeanor.
Kensington Amber
Warm cinnamon is ground into powder, then mixed with a series of culinary spices such as vanilla and tonka bean, all stirred together in an amber jar, giving off a rich aroma of gastronomy.
Marylebone Wood, 2018
The scent of caramel wafts from the corner bakery. As you step inside, you discover the kitchen bustling with the preparation of wood-fired bread for the evening, blending unexpectedly well with the aroma of fruit jam.
Trade Routes Penhaligon’s Perfume
The Business Travel Series is positioned by Penhaligon’s between their regular and high-end lines, boasting consistently high quality and reputation, with prices slightly above those of their regular line.
Empressa
This blend of patchouli doesn’t showcase its traditional earthy depth; instead, it leans towards freshness. The classic combination of patchouli and rose takes on a refreshing and lively twist.
Lothair
Imagine yourself in a lavender-filled garden, savoring a cup of rich English breakfast tea, while fruity and spicy aromas dance in your nostrils. In this moment, you might envision a tea ship setting sail on the high seas.
Levantium
As a floral downpour ensues, the air fills with the sweet scent of flowers, transporting one momentarily to a fairyland of blooming gardens. The inclusion of oud in the base notes adds depth, infusing the floral fragrance with an unparalleled sense of tranquility.
As Sawira
After a wisp of smoke, one may catch sight of blooming flowers beyond the mist. The smoky woody notes, enveloped by the floral bouquet, evoke the image of slowly burning oud, eventually transitioning into a remarkably gentle essence.
Conclusion:
Penhaligon’s fragrances capture the essence of sophistication and luxury, offering a journey through evocative scents that resonate with both tradition and innovation. Whether you seek the freshness of citrus notes or the warmth of oriental spices, Penhaligon’s delivers unparalleled craftsmanship and elegance in every bottle, making it a must-have for fragrance enthusiasts seeking refinement and distinction.