We are intimately connected with nature, receiving its gifts, yet sometimes enduring its punishments. Through the process of “taming,” we have learned to coexist effectively with the natural world. Without this taming, humanity might still be in a primitive state. Humans have domesticated plants and animals for various needs such as labor, sustenance, warmth, and aesthetics. In the realm of nature exists a magical entity—fragrance. Seemingly intangible and colorless, fragrance is intricately woven into our lives, influencing not only our daily activities but also our spiritual experiences, inspiring creations in art and literature. Let’d dive into this perfume knowledge.
The relationship between humans and scents resembles a taming process, evolving from passively smelling to actively transforming and applying scents in various aspects of life. Scents play a role in improving food, purifying the air, and creating a pleasant ambiance, among other purposes. Some specific scents even serve to prevent dangers, such as detecting gas leaks or identifying spoiled food.
In the movie “Sideways,” the protagonist Miles, a wine enthusiast, emphasizes the importance of “see, smell, taste” when tasting wine. He skillfully identifies various aromas, creating a sensory experience that showcases his profound understanding of wine. Some individuals are highly sensitive to specific scents, such as the aroma of cilantro, the scent of ink on paper, or the fragrance of newly unpackaged electronic devices. Amidst the astonishment of the olfactory world, have you ever wondered how many scents our brains can actually store?
Categorizing Scents in the Mind
While seemingly peculiar, the question of how many scents humans can recognize has been a subject of research, yielding varied conclusions. Different sources mention figures ranging from 10,000 to 30,000 scents. However, no concrete evidence has been presented to determine the exact number of scents humans can discern. Exploring this question is akin to navigating an endless labyrinth.
Before understanding how many scents humans can recognize, it is essential to know how to categorize scents, considering the vast number of fragrances in existence. The earliest attempt to classify scents scientifically was made by the 18th-century Swedish scientist Linnaeus. He advocated for categorizing scents based on “plants and animals” as the criteria. However, his emphasis on theoretical research over the scents themselves rendered his method impractical. Another proposed method was the “basic odor senses” classification, akin to the concept of “primary colors” in visual arts. This theory identified seven fundamental odor categories, considering them as the building blocks for all other scents. Yet, extensive experiments revealed the enormous effort required for this approach, and it lacked validation.
Contributions from the Wine Industry
The discoveries of Ann C. Noble, a professor at the University of California, seem to offer a new perspective on scent classification. Through extensive research experiments involving students in winemaking programs evaluating different varieties of wine, Noble identified and coined aromas such as raspberry and blackberry. This led to the creation of a “wine aroma wheel.”
Ann C. Noble’s “wine aroma wheel” serves as a standardized vocabulary for describing wine scents. Resembling a dartboard, it is divided into sections of varying sizes. The innermost circle represents broad scent categories like floral. The middle circle contains subcategories such as fragrant floral or spicy floral. The outer circle lists specific scents like rose, coriander, or carnation. This wheel enables the simplification and visualization of complex scent perceptions.
Transforming Scents by Perfumers
While wine aromas cover only a fraction of the world’s scents, perfumers, with their imaginative prowess, have taken the history of scent manipulation to new heights. Aspiring perfumers must master the art of recognizing various fragrance notes, including natural and synthetic ones, as well as their blends. This involves an extensive memory exercise due to the vast array of fragrances.
In the perfume industry, fragrance companies use a unique and complex scent classification system internally. When perfumers learn about a particular scent, they not only memorize its classification but also understand how it can be combined with other scents. Perfumers need not start from scratch when creating a perfume; instead, they draw from established “basic combinations.” For example, a Chypre perfume may consist of essential components like oakmoss, bergamot, and labdanum. By adjusting proportions and adding new elements, they create a Chypre fragrance distinct from previous creations.
This process is akin to assembling Lego blocks. Each fragrance note serves as a Lego piece; for instance, oakmoss essential oil is the “connector,” and patchouli essential oil is the “brick.” Initially, these pieces are assembled to create predetermined elements like windows, tires, or steering wheels. These assembled parts are then further combined to construct the final “car,” which represents the perfume. The “windows” and “tires” in this analogy are the perfumer’s fundamental combinations, fixed compositions of multiple scents that must adhere to chemical rules.
Through the classification and rearrangement of scents, perfumers master the rules governing the assembly of these scented “Lego parts.” With this knowledge, they can concentrate their efforts on creating a variety of distinct perfumes.
Perfume Descriptions Post-Taming
Perfumers capture natural scents, study their characteristics, and tame them to be bottled as perfumes for public use. The variety of perfumes available today is as vast as the ocean, making the process of choosing a perfume feel overwhelming.
When creating a perfume, perfumers generate a corresponding formula, essentially a professional “olfactory recipe,” detailing the precise names and proportions of fragrance ingredients. However, such a formula may be too complex for consumers to comprehend. To address this, the marketing departments of perfume brands create a second version of the formula exclusively for consumers, known as the popularly understood “olfactory chart.” This chart serves as a visual representation of the perfume’s scent. While not precise, it conveys the aromatic essence the perfume aims to communicate. Consumers, even those unfamiliar with specific fragrance notes, can gain a general understanding of the scent when reading this simplified “olfactory chart.”
This method of “olfactory visualization” is widely employed in the official descriptions of perfumes. Take, for example, the official introduction of “Dior J’adore”: “J’adore perfume features an exquisite floral-fruity fragrance with the warmth of Damask Rose from Turkey, interwoven with the enticing fruity scents of Grasse Jasmine and Indian Sambac Jasmine. The lingering aftertaste is enduring. Possessing captivating charm and authentic personality, it transforms classic floral fragrances into a sensual and charming breath, creating an idealized flower that doesn’t exist in nature.”
For consumers, even if they don’t understand the specific scents of Damask Rose or Grasse Jasmine, they can still comprehend that this is a warm and charming floral fragrance. Such a consumer-friendly “olfactory chart” serves as a helpful tool for fragrance newcomers.
Conclusion
From the recognition and classification of primitive scents in nature to the manipulation and blending of scents, the rough and wild aromas transform into elegant and gentle perfumes bottled in beautiful containers. While the history of humanity’s taming of scents may not hold the same significance as the domestication of plants and animals, it has enriched our olfactory world, filling it with captivating fragrances.
The world of scents is incredibly diverse and vibrant. It would be a great pity not to explore it. Come to Branddecant, where you can find over a hundred authentic perfume samples. You can explore perfumes based on styles, scents, and preferences, experiencing the beauty of fragrance.