If each perfume were a movie, the lead role would undoubtedly go to the rose. Over 80% of modern perfumes feature rose notes. While some may find tuberose overwhelming or cilantro unpleasant, it’s rare to hear someone disliking the Rose Perfume.
Everyone has their own rose, symbolizing beauty, love, and memories that are often too profound for words. Roses are not exclusive to women; they can embody both feminine and masculine qualities. In the world of perfumes, the character of rose as the protagonist can vary significantly based on supporting notes.
Think roses only represent soft and delicate femininity? Think again. Roses can be bold, commanding, heavy, or even restless. The following perfumes will take you on a journey into a new world of roses.
Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin
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Opens with the embrace of fresh pine, accompanied by a hint of smoky bitterness that might bring tears to your eyes.
Transitions to white flowers and a subtle milky note, paving the way for the entrance of the rose.
The rose takes center stage, surrounded by the smoky pine background, creating a slightly dizzying and sweet atmosphere.
In the mid-notes, the rose stabilizes, with the clever addition of patchouli and musk, adding an inkiness and a hint of animalic quality.
The dry-down intensifies the sultriness, thickening the texture, and warming the overall tone. The rose becomes richer and sweeter, with echoes of the initial acidity and the mid-notes’ darkness, along with subtle hints of tea. The finale is a bright composition of texture and the brand’s inherent gastronomic allure, with the rose becoming less prominent.
Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit
Opens with an intoxicating jasmine that is almost overwhelming, intertwined with an animalic note with a strong alkaline scent.
After a brief moment of dusty powdery tones, the rose emerges, slightly sour and verdant, reminiscent of the scent of aged wine.
The mid-notes feature a pronounced green Szechuan pepper quality. Surprisingly, common Szechuan constituents are almost untraceable in the fragrance.
Amber masterfully balances the sourness, sweetness, and resinous medicinal and stimulating aspects. The apricot, with its slightly chemical undertone, is smoothed out, providing a lively and cheerful feeling reminiscent of the lively charm of spring. The combination of sharp powdery greenness, sweet and sticky amber, and subdued woody darkness creates a backdrop for the graceful silhouette of the rose.
Roses Full of Greenery
Serge Lutens Sa Majeste la Rose, 2000
A delicate, verdant rose, like a rosebud about to bloom, exudes a refined fragrance. The rose’s stems and leaves, accompanied by lychee notes, add a touch of fresh elegance, suggesting this rose majesty is clearly a young girl yet to experience the world.
Hermessence Rose Ikebana, 2004
The initial sharp citrus notes quickly fade, unveiling this fragrance’s rose theme. Enhanced with the delicate aroma of tea, it exudes a literary charm reminiscent of Chinese aesthetics. The tea’s serene and verdant qualities bring forth a distinct greenness to this rose fragrance.
Santa Maria Novella Rosa, 1999
A splendid and majestic May rose, with a bitter undertone creating an uncommonly restrained temperament. Over time, the bitterness fades, giving way to a gradual sweetness accompanied by herbal green notes, evoking a unique personality in this rose composition.
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Dark and Mysterious Rose
Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin, 2013
With its cool pepperiness and crimson liquid reminiscent of fresh blood emitting a sweet-savory scent, this gothic-inspired rose fragrance envelops you like a midsummer night. It feels like lying on damp earth surrounded by dark roses, with gothic churches glowing in the distance.
Byredo Rose Noir, 2008
A classic chypre (mossy) fragrance, the dark mossy scent creates a gothic fairy tale ambiance, mysterious and irresistible. While chypre fragrances often evoke old-world charm, the scent of Night Rose is anything but outdated, balancing rose and moss with a modern touch.
Juliette Has A Gun Lady Vengeance, 2006
Resembling a revenge-themed movie, this fragrance blends rose, vanilla, and patchouli, each enhancing and restraining the others. Rose undoubtedly plays the immortal lead, warm and serene with a classical, painterly style. Vanilla adds rich sweetness, while the base of patchouli brings earthy bitterness, imbuing a mysterious air akin to a movie’s antagonist. This transformation from sweetness to gloom underscores the theme of vengeance.
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Frederic Malle Rose Tonnerre (Une Rose)
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Starts with a brief moment of verdant and almost pungent geranium, followed by the sensation of champagne bubbles rising, accompanied by a slightly bitter, caramel-like acidity.
The subsequent stage introduces a dry, burning woody texture, giving a strong impression of dignity. Melding seamlessly with the skin, akin to fine silk undergarments.
Fruity and woody elements, often considered supporting actors, blend seamlessly with the rose, forming a harmonious composition. The final stage brings out the sweetness of honey and the delightful base of musk, creating a dense, animalic sweetness. A deep inhalation near the wrist gives the impression of being enveloped in a crimson silk, dense, delicate, and boundless.
Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady
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Dry, grand, and with a sense of palace-like opulence, the woody rose takes the lead, dominating everything yet remaining elusive.
The opening features a spicy herbal note, followed by the emergence of a slightly sour cinnamon.
The magnificent and enchanting musk precedes galbanum, hinting at an ink-like fragrance, oozing out from the sleeve. Throughout, the woody texture remains, reminiscent of brittle dry wood being broken, scattering wood chips on the floor.
In the mid-notes, a delicate sweetness with a touch of fruitiness appears, adding a refreshing and elegant touch to the overall regal atmosphere. The subsequent introduction of amber and frankincense imparts a bitter note, reminiscent of the stimulating taste of propolis. The transition into a thick, dry, and slightly provocative animalic sweetness, like golden honey slowly dripping, concludes the fragrance. Undoubtedly a queenly scent, suitable for women of power and beauty, such as Catherine de’ Medici or Empress Dowager Cixi.
Yves Saint Laurent Paris
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The opening green leaf accord is a signature of YSL Paris, cheerful and cautiously tender.
Unexpectedly transitions to a mix of clean and somber notes, with angelica, violet, and iris root creating a sense of rancid fat.
The female lead takes the stage only after two hours. Coquettish, powdery, with a touch of soapiness, this rose is the epitome of a rose. Elegant and gentle, neither watery nor green, neither domineering nor delicate. The mid-notes are lengthy, warm, and confident, with floral nuances becoming more delicate as time passes. Hints of plum blossom and honeysuckle, with a cool and beautiful aroma reminiscent of April in the northern regions. The finale introduces a scent of snow cream, with musk and amber transformed into a delicate and dignified appearance. She is the kind of lady who doesn’t need to attract attention, yet someone will care for her throughout her life. In her presence, you might feel either too scheming or too rough.
Penhaligon’s The Coveted Duchess Rose
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A “drool-worthy” watery rose with subtle pine and a hint of coquetry, resembling a young lady with a mischievous smile.
Entering the mid-notes, a cool earthy tone appears, followed by the sudden rise of musk, merging with the rose to create a tingling sensation, like collapsing into a lover’s arms after a lively dance.
As the scent progresses, it becomes lighter, softer, sweeter, and more alluring. It never ventures into bloody or harsh territory. In the final notes, there’s a hint of woody alcohol, creating a refreshing and elegant feeling, like a delicate sigh with restraint. A beautifully crafted ladylike fragrance, sweet but just right, and cool without being overly so.
Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land
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You are the last rose in my barren land.
Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land is a fragrance that opens with a distinctive wave of rose and pink pepper, creating a fresh and youthful atmosphere. The initial impression is characterized by a cold, practical, easy-going, and slightly sweet quality, primarily centered around the prominent notes of rose and noticeable elements of pink pepper.
The opening notes shine with a burst of rose and pink pepper, reminiscent of a refreshing wave of roses. This creates a clear and unapologetic blend of coolness and the floral essence of rose. In the spectrum of rose fragrances, this one leans towards being light and likable, fitting the category of a more youthful and approachable rose, as opposed to heavier and more dominating rose scents that exude a commanding presence.
Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land gives a sense of stillness. The intention behind the rose is more about capturing the essence of a single rose or even just the petals, devoid of aggressive undertones yet radiating both gentleness and strength. Despite the perceived coldness, there’s a subtle hint of fruitiness, with the sweetness of lychee adding a layer of controversy to the overall composition. This sweetness, while debatable among fragrance enthusiasts, contributes to the wearability of the scent, making it suitable for younger individuals who wish to embrace the essence of rose.
In its essence, this fragrance serves as a tribute to the field nurses. The portrayal of a rose in no man’s land symbolizes a thornless rose, reflecting the many virtues of women—gentle yet resilient, pure yet approachable. The fragrance encapsulates the duality of these nurses, embodying kindness and warmth within the harsh and unforgiving environment of the battlefield.
Conclusion：
Rose fragrances represent a versatile and classic archetype in the world of perfumery. They showcase the multifaceted nature of the rose flower, ranging from fresh and sweet to deep and complex, catering to various olfactory preferences. These fragrances encapsulate qualities of romance, elegance, and timelessness, offering warmth, comfort, and intoxicating allure. The scent of rose, both classic and diverse, continues to captivate numerous perfume enthusiasts with its unique charm.