Welcome to the Salon Perfumes Guide: Essential for Beginners (Part 2), where you’ll learn about high-end salon perfumes and become a fragrance connoisseur admired by all.
As you know, for someone who despises smelling like everyone else and values exclusivity, nothing but the mysterious allure of salon fragrances will suffice. They’ll help you outshine your competition in the dating scene who dare to wear mere CK.
Today, we’ll continue to delve into the legends surrounding salon perfume brands. To ensure you have a comprehensive understanding of salon perfumes after reading this manual, we highly recommend starting with the first volume: Perfume Bible: Salon Perfumes Guide: Essential for Beginners (Part 1).
The Salon Perfumes Guide comprises 4 parts: Part 1: Entry-level salon brands, Edgy salon brands Part 2: Commercial brand salon lines, Advanced salon brands
Let’s dive into Part 2.
Commercial Brand Salon Lines
There are quite a few commercial brands that have launched salon lines, seemingly as a reflection of their luxury brand image. However, not every salon line can be considered successful, as many have faded from public view and been forgotten. Perhaps those that truly focus on exclusivity and serve only a select few are the real “high-end lines.” This time, we’ll only review some of the salon lines we frequently encounter, without listing them all.
Les Exclusifs de Chanel
Keywords: Conservative
Flagship Product: Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore
Thanks to Chanel’s strong financial foundation, it’s easy for them to attract renowned perfumers, resulting in a collection with some truly exceptional fragrances. The Les Exclusifs line includes replicas of masterpieces from the 1920s such as No. 22, Cuir de Russie, and Coromandel, showcasing genuine quality. However, objectively speaking, many fragrances in this collection still bear the shadow of commercial perfumes and lack the distinctive character expected from salon fragrances.
Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur
Keywords: Sincerity
Flagship Product: Dior Bois D’Argent
Dior’s collection bears many similarities to Chanel’s, with comparable originality and ingredient quality. Even the drawbacks are similar, as the collection tends to be conservative, but the quality remains excellent, with long-lasting fragrances.
Hermes Hermessence
Keywords: Taste
Flagship Product: Hermes Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan
While Hermes may also lean towards conservatism overall, lacking any particularly avant-garde creations, the involvement of Jean-Claude Ellena ensures absolute quality. These fragrances perfectly embody the essence of “savoring fragrance,” focusing on creating atmospheres and experiences rather than just scents. Those willing to invest in this collection are genuine fragrance enthusiasts in every sense.
Armani Prive
Keywords: Art
Flagship Product: Giorgio Armani Bois d’Encens
The most striking aspect of the Armani Prive collection is the profound sense of artistry it exudes. As Mr. Armani himself stated, he aimed to establish a high-end fragrance line without regard to costs, specifically for his friends. Whether or not costs were spared is debatable, but what’s evident is the collection’s relentless pursuit of artistic expression, making it a truly uncompromising salon line.
Tom Ford Private Blend
Keywords: Sensual
Flagship Product: Tom Ford Santal Blush
Tom Ford himself embodies sensuality, and so do his fragrances, including his Private Blend line. The word “sensual” permeates every corner of the brand. Unlike other commercial brands, the Private Blend collection is the flagship of Tom Ford fragrances, with a plethora of exquisite and inspired creations. Even when compared horizontally, Tom Ford’s Private Blend stands out as the best among commercial brand salon lines.
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire
Keywords: Richness
Flagship Product: Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Oud
Renowned for their jewelry’s natural charm and exquisite craftsmanship, Van Cleef & Arpels fragrances are like liquid jewels meticulously crafted. The Extraordinaire collection features fragrances made from the finest ingredients, boasting rich layers of scent and exceptional quality that rivals well-known salon brands. What’s more, their prices are quite reasonable compared to other salon lines.
Other Fragrances: GUERLAIN PARIS ELIXIR, LES PARISIENNES YSL TUXEDO – LE VESTIAIRE DES PARFUMS etc.
Advanced Salon Brands
There isn’t a strict line between entry-level salon brands and advanced salon brands, nor is it a matter of high or low class. The division is merely a matter of sequence. “Advanced” simply suggests trying them after gaining some experience. If you haven’t yet experienced fragrances from entry-level salon brands, we recommend focusing your attention there.
Byredo
Keywords: Minimalism
Flagship Product: Byredo Rose of No Man’s Land
This Swedish fragrance brand perfectly embodies the Nordic minimalist style in its design. With simple black and white bottle designs and minimalist labeling, Byredo fragrances seem to emerge from a laboratory. Founded by Ben Gorham, a graduate of an art school and an outsider to the fragrance industry, Byredo’s fragrances exude a strong sense of minimalism. If mainstream salon perfumes are like a colorful stage, Byredo’s fragrances are like an empty white room with a few carefully placed decorations.
Frederic Malle
Keywords: Master Perfumers
Flagship Product: Frederic Malle Rose Tonnerre(Une Rose)
Fondly known as FM, Frederic Malle is an extraordinary fragrance brand that gathers a group of the world’s top perfumers. These perfumers, with their lifelong accumulation of knowledge, create freely and without restraint here. For instance, JCE, the beloved perfumer for Hermès, has created three fragrances for FM. Additionally, FM is the first brand to print the perfumer’s name on the perfume bottle, showing its respect for perfumers. Due to the diverse array of perfumers, FM does not have a unified fragrance style; versatility is its hallmark.
James Heeley
Keywords: Freshness
Flagship Product: James Heeley Sel Marin
Founded by a British individual, James Heeley blends British elegance and finesse with traditional French perfumery to create the James Heeley brand. Rather than pursuing overly unique artistic expressions, this brand aims to depict the existing world of fragrances in the best possible way. Their most popular fragrances revolve around nature, capturing heavenly effects from seemingly mundane themes. For example, their “Fresh Mint” fragrance is refreshingly pleasant, rejuvenating the olfactory senses like a breath of fresh air.
The Different Company
Keywords: JCE’s Playground
Flagship Product: The Different Company Osmanthus
The “internet-famous” perfumer JCE (Jean-Claude Ellena), renowned as the in-house perfumer for Hermès, needs little introduction. His classic works have garnered immense popularity in China and beyond. The Different Company, founded by JCE, serves as his playground. Working within luxury companies imposes many constraints, hindering creative freedom. However, in The Different Company, JCE can unleash his imagination without constraints. The intriguing brand name seems to validate this notion of exceptional craftsmanship.
By Kilian
Keywords: Seductive
Signature Fragrance: Kilian Back to Black
By Kilian is perhaps the most captivating brand, filled with an essence of “seduction.” However, don’t misunderstand; this “seduction” isn’t the colloquial online term for brainwashing, but rather the pure essence of the demonic attribute found in Western religions. The “Garden of Good and Evil” series within the brand eloquently expresses this notion, with fragrances such as “Kilian Back to Black,” “Kilian Forbidden Games,” and “Kilian Smoke for the Soul.” The perfumers seem to attempt to entice us to break taboos with scents, gradually falling into the palms of the devil. This demonic aura permeates almost every fragrance, even the most conventional ones in the regular series. This devilish temperament imbues the fragrances with a daring aroma, daring to use fragrance-making techniques that other brands wouldn’t dare to use, daring to employ the most unique forms of expression, daring to go to extremes… In short, don’t hold back; surrender your soul to the devil!
Amouage
Keywords: Premium Ingredients
Signature Fragrance: Amouage Epic Woman
Amouage is a true Arabian fragrance brand, which brings to mind the term “affluence,” doesn’t it? But you should know that not all affluent individuals are willing to splurge on ingredients. In the realm of using superior ingredients, Amouage surpasses all others. Its founder is a true believer in the philosophy of pure perfumery, striving to revive the world’s status as a paradise of Arabian fragrances. The prices of all fragrances under the Amouage brand are above a thousand yuan, and most of them are considered to be worth their price. The abundant use of top-quality natural fragrances, akin to waves crashing, allows one to witness the olfactory paradise created by beautiful fragrances. Amouage’s aristocratic attributes give it a unique advantage in the expensive fragrance theme, with many outstanding works featuring challenging ingredients such as agarwood and rose, which can be decided by a showdown of money. However, in the theme of fresh and light fragrances, many of Amouage’s works have a relatively low cost-performance ratio.
Parfum d’Empire
Keywords: Noble, Dominant
Signature Fragrance: Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus Interdite
Behind the powerful name “Empire of Fragrance” lies the founder’s love for historical empires. Most of the brand’s fragrances are related to a specific ancient empire, such as Forbidden Osmanthus, Turkish Leather, and Russian Amber. The perfumer selects the most representative fragrance to depict a particular empire, exuding a noble and luxurious dominance, but this dominance isn’t accepted by everyone. Many fragrances are very penetrating, with spicy or heavy fragrances that may leave you dizzy, perhaps demonstrating a sense of “historical awareness” that the author wanted to convey.
Nasomatto
Keywords: Madness
Signature Fragrance: Nasomatto Black Afgano
“Madness” is the hallmark of Nasomatto. The founder and perfumer’s madness lies in his belief that people cannot inject inspiration into perfumes; during the creative process, perfumes will generate inspiration themselves and guide people to create them. Therefore, complete lack of control, allowing the perfumery process to develop on its own, is Alessandro’s philosophy of perfumery. While everyone else is producing computers, he wants to create an artificial intelligence that can think for itself. Perfumes created under this model are, of course, unique, smelling like entering another dimension. Moreover, Nasomatto’s fragrances are all 30ml pure extracts, and the intensity and penetrative power of the fragrance are unparalleled by ordinary perfumes, delivering an impact that is not to be underestimated.
Santa Maria Novella
Keywords: Ancient
Flagship Product: Santa Maria Novella Rosa
Santa Maria Novella is an Italian royal apothecary brand, abbreviated as SMN, with a history dating back to the 13th century when it was founded by a monk in a monastery. Using traditional perfumery techniques and rigorous selection of ingredients, SMN crafts beloved perfumes by hand. Though the original perfumery family has long vanished, SMN preserves many ancient fragrance formulas. The brand’s perfumes exude the simple beauty of traditional fragrances, imparting a magical calming effect that soothes the soul and washes away restlessness upon sniffing them.
Montale
Keywords: Diffusivity, Agarwood
Flagship Product: Montale Louban
Originally established to create perfumes for nobles and kings in the Arabian region, Montale later returned to Paris and transformed into the salon brand it is today. This heritage is reflected in its high standards for spices, excellent diffusivity, and a deep love for agarwood. Due to the Arab world’s fondness for agarwood, most of Montale’s perfumes are associated with it, with a staggering 46 fragrances revolving around agarwood. Arab people tend to be more lavish in their use of fragrances, as exemplified by “Jasmine Full House,” which can permeate an entire room when sprayed. Additionally, to protect fragrances from oxidation, Montale’s perfume bottles are made of aluminum, making them surprisingly light to hold, which might be unsettling for those accustomed to glass bottles.
Etro
Keywords: Mystery
Flagship Product: Etro Messe de Minuit
Etro is actually a hybrid brand, primarily known as a fashion brand, but its perfumes, characterized by their unique approach and niche positioning, are best classified as salon brands. Etro’s perfumes exhibit a distinctively unique approach to fragrance creation, turning familiar fragrance themes into something entirely different. Another hallmark is the mysterious aura conveyed by the fragrances, as if the spices have been influenced by ancient deities, resulting in an indescribable scent. Among its most famous creations is “Midnight Mass,” exuding a sense of mystery and darkness reminiscent of ancient religious rituals.
Le Labo
Keywords: Handcrafted
Flagship Product: Le Labo Santal 33
In an era where perfumes are largely industrialized, Le Labo stands out as a bastion of handcrafted production, with each bottle of perfume meticulously blended and bottled by professional perfumers according to unique formulas. Even the design of the perfume bottles emphasizes a laboratory aesthetic, resembling chemical reagents. The fragrances themselves are complex and layered, offering a rich olfactory experience. However, the downside of handcrafted perfumes is that bottles transported over long distances, especially to China, may have a higher probability of leakage due to inadequate sealing.
Olfactive Studio
Keywords: Photography
Flagship Product: Olfactive Studio Lumière Blanche
The intriguing aspect of Olfactive Studio lies in its fusion of fragrance with photography. Each perfume is inspired by a photograph and named using photographic terminology. A good perfume should evoke imagination, stir memories, or conjure a new world, and Olfactive Studio cleverly combines visual and olfactory elements to immerse individuals in the experience. Despite being a small brand, it collaborates with renowned perfumers, resulting in fragrances that exhibit diverse styles corresponding to the featured photographs.
Carthusia
Keywords: Rustic, Sea Breeze
Signature Fragrance: Carthusia Mediterraneo
The brand Carthusia is associated with a small island, and its history dates back to 1380 AD when the St. Giacomo Monastery adorned with flowers to welcome the Queen. After the flowers were discarded, the bishop discovered that the water infused with the flowers emitted a unique fragrance. Subsequently, alchemists used this water to create the first perfume of Capri. In 1948, the monastery entrusted the perfume formula to a chemist, leading to the creation of the Capri fragrance brand. Even today, every bottle of Capri fragrance retains the traditional craftsmanship passed down by the monks. In terms of scent, Capri fragrances infuse a rustic charm into the pleasant sea breeze of the island, embodying the serene feeling of the blue skies and azure seas in each fragrance.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Keywords: Master Perfumer
Signature Fragrance: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin
Francis Kurkdjian, often abbreviated as MFK, is a legendary perfumer who founded his own brand. He has left many iconic works in other brands, such as Narciso Rodriguez for her, Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier, and others. However, he couldn’t fully express himself elsewhere, so he unleashed his creative talent in his own “home.” Kurkdjian’s perfumery skills are unparalleled, and within his brand, he has created many acclaimed “masterpieces.” It’s important to note that the term “masterpiece” is not casually used.
Lorenzo Villoresi
Keywords: Dreamlike
Signature Fragrance: Lorenzo Villoresi Iperborea
Lorenzo Villoresi is a dreamlike brand. People used to abbreviate it as LV, but then Louis Vuitton also started producing perfumes, so LV was no longer appropriate. It’s described as dreamlike because most of the fragrances draw inspiration from the founder’s meditation. In the Fantasy series, he portrays the world of dreams through fragrances, full of romantic exoticism. In the Classic series, traditional ingredients take center stage, reinterpreted with dreamlike qualities. Smelling Villoresi’s perfumes is like appreciating impressionist oil paintings, with a hazy dreamlike feeling.
Miller Harris
Keywords: Lively
Signature Fragrance: Miller Harris La Pluie Another
British brand with a quintessential British temperament, Miller Harris fragrances exude a gentle and traditional English vibe. Most of the fragrance themes aim to capture a realistic ambiance, attempting to recreate some beautiful natural moments. Describing this brand as lively and poetic is most apt; it doesn’t deliberately pursue a fresh and youthful state. Its freshness is more mischievous and carefree, frolicking in nature regardless of others’ opinions. However, this “playfulness” also has wild moments, such as “Forest Earth,” which can make newcomers feel like they’ve been thrown into the wilderness.
CB I Hate Perfume
Keywords: Avant-garde
Signature Fragrance: CB I Hate Perfume Winter
The founder of CB I Hate Perfume, Christopher Brosius, is the same person behind “Demeter,” so their styles are very similar, with CB I Hate Perfume being seen as an upgraded version of Demeter. Fragrance Times once translated a BBC documentary “Perfume,” which featured an interesting interview segment with Christopher Brosius. The name “I Hate Perfume” refers to his dislike for traditional perfumes, so the fragrances of this brand are inherently avant-garde and employ unconventional perfumery techniques. However, whether you like this brand or not largely depends on whether you enjoy Demeter, as both brands are too avant-garde to be judged by normal standards like scent and longevity.
Memo
Keywords: Journey
Signature Fragrance: Memo Inlé
The birth of Memo is a fascinating coincidence. Its two founders came from two very different worlds and met on a cable car during a journey. They regretted not meeting earlier and decided to establish the Memo brand together. Their common hobby is adventure, and they imbue this adventurous spirit into their creations. They believe that perfumes are like magical journeys, full of endless possibilities from beginning to end and should encompass exciting moments. From Memo’s fragrances, it’s evident that most of them are related to travel themes, such as “Siwa Valley,” “Inlé Tea,” and “Egyptian Leather,” where they select a primary fragrance note to depict dreamlike journeys.
Lubin
Keywords: Royalty
Signature Fragrance: Lubin Black Jade
Lubin is also a long-established perfume brand, born in 1798, responsible for supplying perfumes to European royalty between the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, Lubin still maintains high originality and traditional Parisian perfumery craftsmanship to satisfy the most discerning customers. In terms of scent, Lubin’s perfumes are both grand and elegant, exuding a splendid royal atmosphere. With over 200 years of perfumery experience, Lubin has accumulated rich craftsmanship.
Clive Christian
Keywords: Most Expensive Perfume
Signature Fragrance: Clive Christian 1872 For Women
This is perhaps the most expensive perfume brand, with even its perfume bottles being of jewelry-grade. Its predecessor was the Crown Perfumery Company established in 1872, and due to its exceptional perfumery skills, Queen Victoria of England granted them permission to use the crown as their emblem. In terms of ingredients, they select the world’s most precious natural botanicals, making their fragrances extremely costly. Clive Christian’s Royal No. 1, priced at $200,000, was included in the Guinness World Records as the “world’s most expensive perfume.”
Xerjoff
Keywords: New Money
Signature Fragrance: X1861
Xerjoff is a luxurious niche perfume brand from Italy, founded in 2007, and is considered a newcomer in the perfume industry. It’s said that the founder creates perfumes with the concept of crafting luxury goods, with none of their perfumes priced below a thousand dollars. Precious and rare ingredients, advanced craftsmanship, and luxurious bottle designs, every detail exudes a luxurious quality.
Conclusion:
Salon perfumes represent a niche within the fragrance industry that embodies innovation, artistry, and exclusivity. These perfumes, crafted by master perfumers or artisanal brands, often push the boundaries of conventional scent compositions, offering unique olfactory experiences. With an emphasis on quality ingredients, meticulous craftsmanship, and storytelling, salon perfumes cater to discerning individuals seeking fragrances that evoke emotions, memories, and cultural narratives. From avant-garde creations to time-honored traditions, salon perfumes continue to captivate fragrance enthusiasts and connoisseurs worldwide, serving as olfactory expressions of luxury and sophistication.