Tips: What is a Salon Perfume? Unlike well-known brands like Dior and Chanel, salon perfumes are typically crafted by specialized fragrance brands with a significant history. They often prioritize fragrance over bottle design, using uniform perfume bottles. As they don’t necessarily compete for mass market sales, salon perfumes break free from catering to popular tastes, emphasizing individuality, creativity, and uniqueness. Like Serge Lutens Perfume, Frederic Malle, L’Artisan Parfumeur.
When we mention “salon perfumes,” what comes to mind? Obscure? Niche? High-end? Behind the chic facade of this term hides a multitude of fragrance brands, ranging from formidable giants to artisanal families staying true to their craft. Salon perfumes are not solely about being obscure or niche; those with substance aim for the top, refusing to stay in the shadows.
It’s challenging to define who holds the true top spot, but there’s one brand whose acclaim is undeniable. Although not the most expensive or eccentric, Serge Lutens, affectionately dubbed “Lu Dan” in the fragrance community, embodies all the characteristics of a true salon perfume. If you’ve only encountered Miss Coco or Wind of Love, exploring Serge Lutens for the first time can be a mind-bending experience. The brand’s allure lies in its unapologetic “heavy” scents, rejecting mediocrity as its signature style, with boundless creativity as its motto. In the realm of Serge Lutens, you’ll encounter a myriad of novel sensations, as if stepping into an entirely new world.
“Can perfumes really be made like this?” This was my first impression when introduced to Serge Lutens, as its stark contrast with commercial giants is truly remarkable. While not all Serge Lutens fragrances fall into the “heavy” category, the brand explores various styles, including some refreshing compositions.
In 2017, Serge Lutens underwent a comprehensive product overhaul, resetting fragrance series classifications, modifying perfume bottle designs and packaging. Whether the fragrance formulas were altered remains unclarified by the official statement. Therefore, there’s no need to worry about your beloved scents becoming unavailable. The adjusted series include:
Old Series:
- White Label: Regular line, white label.
- Black Label: Regular line, black label.
- L’eau: Regular line, fresh style.
- Exclusive Bottel: High-end line.
- Section d’ or: Ultra high-end line, exorbitant prices.
New Series:
- Collection Noire: Standard Line for Black and White Labels
- Les Eaux de Politesse: Regular line, most black and white labels now fall under this.
- L’eau: Regular line, with a few old variations moved here.
- Gratte-Ciel: Mid to high-end line, composed of some black labels and Bell Jar fragrances.
- Exclusive Bottel: High-end line, mostly unchanged but with some white and black labels added.
- Section d’ or: Ultra high-end line, unchanged.
Collection Noire
Serge Lutens has released over 90 fragrances to date, leaving many intrigued about their scents. Today, let’s provide a comprehensive evaluation of the entire Serge Lutens fragrance lineup, starting with the popular Collection noire series:
La Fille de Berlin – Original White Label
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A gentle rose paired with pepper, introducing a spicy warmth to the tender rose fragrance. Plum’s tartness emerges later, creating a captivating Gothic rose.
Participe Passé p
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An unforgettable potion reminiscent of traditional Chinese medicine. Despite the presence of caramel, the blend of vetiver and cumin offers a profound bittersweet experience. Hints of coffee and leather linger beneath the surface, gazing up from the abyss.
Dent de Lait
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Metallic notes resembling real blood. After the peculiar sensation, almond milkiness joins in, transitioning the scent towards gourmand territory. The fusion of bloody and milky notes is both strange and fascinating.
La Couche du Diable
A blend of bitterness and sweetness with a profound, dark scent, extraordinarily piercing, like a bottle of poison in the abyss, imprisoning a soul in distress.
Datura Noir – Original White Label
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A combination of vanilla and almond, creating a milky fragrance reminiscent of Red Poison. The star here is datura, gentle and mysterious, not as dominant as Red Poison.
Chergui – Original White Label
Tobacco and honey intertwine, bitter with a touch of sweetness, and the scent becomes more delicate. Cream is added later, further smoothing the edges of the tobacco, creating a gentle tobacco-themed fragrance.
Ambre Sultan – Original White Label
An alchemist king, blending various ingredients into an amber-scented potion. Amid sweetness and bitterness, a dominating smoky authority is revealed.
Feminite du Bois – Original White Label
Serge Lutens’ inaugural masterpiece. A bewitching cedar, gentle cinnamon, set within the ambiance of dried fruits, a realm of unforgettable tenderness.
Five O’Clock Au Gingembre – Original White Label
Imagining sipping English afternoon tea by a burning fireplace, relishing the warm aroma of ginger, cinnamon, and tea. Simultaneously, the sweet taste of ginger tea lingers, creating a picturesque atmosphere.
Fleurs d’Oranger – Original White Label
While worldly orange blossoms are associated with delicate maidens, Serge Lutens transforms them into a wild beast. The powerful indolic scent of natural white flowers, particularly intimidating for most.
Un Bois Vanille
Original White Label Vanilla combined with coconut, the two milky notes intertwining for an extra sweet aroma. This delightful gourmand fragrance is happiness in a bottle, and wearing it feels like carrying a mobile cake.
Vetiver Oriental
Despite being labeled as vetiver, it’s more like a damp forest covered in oakmoss. It’s cool and profound, with a hint of chocolate and iris midway, resembling a whimsical forest.
Clair de Musc Original White Label
Musk is a peculiar fragrance note, both clean and suggestive of human body odor. Clair de Musc brings out the clean side of musk, like freshly laundered air.
Nuit de Cellophane – Original White Label
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Extremely reminiscent of osmanthus, with sweet honeysuckle and fruity notes as accents. Overall, it’s serene, delicate, and sweetly appealing.
La Religieuse – Original Black Label
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Delicate jasmine soaked in the warm, powdery incense fragrance. Musk wafts in the air, teasing you intermittently. The Nun is pleasant but not restrained.
Santal Majuscule – Original Black Label
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The sandalwood here is warm, and upon closer inspection, you can also detect the delicious scents of cocoa, honey, and caramel. The natural milky aroma of sandalwood is silky and delicate.
Baptême du Feu- Original Black Label
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Freshly baked gingerbread with a hint of tangerine. The slightly spicy scent represents the heat radiating from a fireplace, far from an ordinary gourmand fragrance.
L’orpheline – Original Black Label
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Inspired by ashes, it concocts a gentle incense that’s hard to describe. Upon close examination, there seems to be a tangy dried plum flavor. The fragrance feels quietly solemn.
La Vierge De Fer – Original Bell Jar
A lily embellished with metal, giving the soft lily flower a cold, hard texture, creating an imaginative piece.
Gratte-Ciel
The design of the Gratte-Ciel series draws inspiration from the classic 1927 sci-fi film “Metropolis,” featuring iconic skyscrapers reaching into the clouds. The perfume bottles mirror the towering structures depicted in the movie, creating a unique olfactory experience reminiscent of the cinematic masterpiece.
Borneo 1834 – Original Pendulum
The fusion of intense camphor and cocoa creates a bitter-sweet symphony. The strong medicinal scent evokes a complex array of emotions, reminiscent of traditional Chinese herbal ingredients, despite the added sweetness.
Cuir Mauresque – Original Pendulum
A primal leather fragrance that initially combines leather and musk, exuding a savage quality. The heavy leather scent carries a hint of carnal desire.
Chene – Original Pendulum
Capturing the essence of oak barrels soaked in rum, exuding a subtle intoxication with bitter woody notes and a touch of beeswax.
L’innommable
An initially gripping bitterness, a medley of scents akin to medicinal herbs, reminiscent of herbal remedies. The complexity of bitter burnt sugar, coffee, and camphor gradually intertwines, creating a mysterious and deep aroma.
Fille en Aiguilles – (Original Black Label)
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A journey into a pine forest, with prominent pine, dried fruit, and resinous notes from incense. An imaginative and evocative scent, where every individual may envision a different pine forest girl.
Tubereuse Criminelle – (Original Pendulum)
Dominant tuberose with a chilling undertone, reminiscent of a sharp and icy sword. A compelling fragrance that eventually captivates with the alluring floral notes of tuberose.
Muscs Koublai Khan (Original Pendulum)
Unexpectedly daring with its intensely animalic and sweaty scent, often described as the aroma of a grassland warrior who hasn’t bathed in months. A fragrance that intrigues and captivates.
De Profundis (Original Pendulum)
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One of the most popular fragrances in the Pendulum series, a stunning purple liquid with a delicate chrysanthemum scent. Light and captivating, the perfume artfully depicts the rarely explored aroma of chrysanthemum.
Fumerie Turque (Original Pendulum)
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A dreamlike journey through an ethereal realm filled with elusive smoke. The dream is painted in caramel hues, with sweet and intoxicating undertones.
Serge Noire (Original Black Label)
A rebellion of spices in the realm of dark fragrances, a chaotic dance of dark and mysterious aromas. Conjures images of London’s dark alleys on a threatening night.
Louve (Original Pendulum)
A delicious almond-scented sweet treat with a hint of almond bitterness, complemented by delightful cherry jam. Surprisingly, this Louve is crafted with gourmand notes.
Les Eaux de Politesse
Introducing a new series from Serge Lutens, Les Eaux de Politesse embodies a refreshing and transparent olfactory experience, showcasing another facet of Serge Lutens’ perfume style. With the exception of the new addition, L’Eau d’Armoise, the other five fragrances are reinterpretations of existing scents. The Les Eaux De Politesse series is available in 100ml bottles, presenting a collection that epitomizes clarity and elegance.
L’Eau d’Armoise
The initial notes evoke a chilling sensation, akin to an ice cube shrouded in a misty white veil. Subsequently, the emergence of Artemisia brings forth a potent medicinal quality, profound in its bitterness and elusive nature. The base notes capture the essence of everlasting blooms, seamlessly blending freshness with a bold complexity, creating an imaginative and contradictory masterpiece.
Santal Blanc (Original Pendulum)
White sandalwood with a natural milky aroma, embellished with fruity hard candy, a touch of pink pepper, and a hint of smokiness. The new version incorporates a lemony twist, enhancing its overall clarity.
Fleurs de Citronnier (Original White Label)
The initial burst of citrusy sourness transforms into a clean, soapy sensation with a hint of bitterness and greenery. The new version accentuates the citrus notes, making it even fresher.
Gris Clair (Original White Label)
A lavender gradually softening amidst a subtle powdery backdrop, creating an abstract, grey-hued painting. A subdued lavender in a delicate pink ambiance.
L’Eau Froide (Original Water Series)
A minty scent with a hint of salty sea breeze, providing an ultimate coolness. The peppery and incense powder texture feels like spraying dry ice on the body, offering a satisfying cooling effect.
L’Eau de Paille (Original Water Series)
Despite the name, there’s no actual scent of straw. It offers a fresh and moist sensation with a hint of dryness, featuring some woody notes that add a unique touch.
L’eau
The Water Series from Serge Lutens encapsulates a refreshing thematic line, characterized by cool sensations. Available in 50ml and 100ml sizes, these fragrances embody a crisp and invigorating olfactory experience.
L’Eau Serge Lutens
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A duo of mint and citrus creates a refreshing summer drink with the addition of aldehydes, giving it a clean, post-laundry feel, akin to cool mist.
Laine de Verre
Aldehydes provide a cold, crisp, and ethereal scent, resembling smooth and brittle metal, akin to cold glass. A unique, hollow, and eerie beauty.
Exclusive Bottel
The Exclusive Bottel line is the premium range of Serge Lutens, characterized by a stylized approach and superior ingredients. All fragrances are available in a 75ml size, with prices typically exceeding $300.
A La Nuit (Original White Label)
If jasmine in your perception is a demure flower, this jasmine will redefine your understanding. This jasmine is assertive, powerful, and permeates an intense aroma.
Jeux de Peau (Original White Label)
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Inspired by childhood memories of bakery aromas, it uses wheat, milk, and licorice to craft a rich, buttery bread scent.
Sa Majeste la Rose (Original White Label)
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Despite its regal name, it embodies the essence of a princess. The addition of honey and lychee to the rose imparts a sweet and delightful character.
Sarrasins
An unusual jasmine fragrance, akin to a jasmine bewitched by a sorceress, possessing a dark aura. Even the perfume liquid seems to be tainted by a black spell.
Rose de Nuit
A beautiful rose blooming in the night, casting an enchanting allure with the sweetness of rose and honey, creating a captivating fragrance.
Bois de Violette
Immersed in a romantic violet forest, the air is filled with the sweet and sour scent of dried fruits, creating a tranquil and dreamy atmosphere.
Iris Silver Mist
This iris fragrance is akin to a thief; a gentle sniff can be surprisingly intense. The typically gentle iris transforms into a fierce and savage aroma, evoking a sense of fear.
La Myrrhe
Myrrh seems to have undergone a magical transformation, turning into a playful elf dancing in a fairyland, scattering shiny fairy dust.
Rousse
Cinnamon transformed into a delectable fragrance. Imagine the scent of a cinnamon-laden log cabin in a forest, and let your imagination wander into the realm of culinary delights.
Cedre (Original Black Label)
Although named Cedar, it is actually centered around iris. The combination of floral and spicy notes overwhelms, and the cedar note is subtle and hazy.
Douce Amere
A delicious vanilla ice cream, infused with cinnamon for embellishment. The addition of slightly bitter anise makes it a delightful Western dessert.
Rahat Loukoum
An exceptionally unique candy fragrance with a creamy aroma, blending bitter almond powder with cherry syrup. The subtle and intriguing flavor changes leave a lasting impression, and the Turkish delight holds some nutty pieces.
Une Voix Noire
A deep and melodious gardenia, a scent that seems to carry the power to overturn the world. Myriad heavy notes culminate into a white gardenia.
Santal de Mysore
The perfect fusion of natural sandalwood and aromatic spices, resembling spiced milk. The fragrance transitions from creamy and smooth to gradually bitter, creating depth.
Encens et Lavande
The name is straightforward, presenting frankincense-dried lavender. The incense has a short-lived afterburn; eventually, it fades away, leaving behind a lone lavender note.
Vitriol d’oeillet (Original White Label)
A fitting name for a blossoming carnation. The term “vitriol” aptly captures the blooming state of the flower. The floral intensity softens over time, becoming gentle and tender.
Chypre Rouge
Strolling through an untamed pine forest, suddenly stumbling upon a forest party where bears and rabbits serve delightful honey and candy.
Arabie (Original White Label)
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The fragrance is true to its name, featuring a blend of exotic spices reminiscent of the Middle East, accompanied by an array of dried fruits and red dates. Like attending a festive party in a Middle Eastern country.
Bas de Soie (Original White Label)
Contrary to its name, it doesn’t exude sensuality. It offers a relatively cold hyacinth floral scent, even slightly green and austere, conveying an otherworldly and aloof ambiance.
Boxeuses
A fusion of fruity and woody aromas, with the fruitiness carrying a medicinal touch and a hint of salted dried fruits. The woody undertones give it a robust character, balancing the softness with a touch of strength.
El Attarine
An intensely concentrated cumin fragrance, reminiscent of being in the desert regions of Africa, scorched by the blazing sun, sweating profusely, and parched, yet your mom insists you go eat lamb skewers.
Un Bois Sepia
A forest of vetiver drenched in the scent of traditional herbal tonic water. Despite the initially deep theme, it feels straightforward and abrupt, reminiscent of uninspired men’s fragrances from commercial brands, lacking in style.
Mandarine
In stark contrast to the fresh style of “Western citrus,” this orange is a ripe honey mandarin we eat. The scent of orange peel is strong, and the orange seller claims it’s not sweet, no money!
Fourreau Noir
A contradictory combination of almond and lavender, giving the sweet lavender a cold and desolate texture. Like a sharp sword in the dark night, but after the sharpness, it turns gentle, with a very natural fragrance.
Daim Blond (Original Black Label)
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The scent of suede, with a slightly smoky texture, evoking the feel of soft, delicate suede. Alternatively, you might think of a lively little deer?
Miel De Bois
A large jar of honey spilled onto an old tree The sweetness of honey mixes with the woody aroma of the tree trunk. The ancient tree exudes a deep woody scent, and musk is added, adding a touch of restlessness.
Bois et Musc
A gentle and elegant forest, with the addition of musk, giving it a clean soapy feel. The overall feel is like a bright and clear white forest, with sunlight streaming in through the gaps in the trees.
Bois Oriental
A typical oriental-style forest, filled with the aroma of various spicy spices, hot as if about to catch fire, and then a wave of sweets comes, ultimately roasted into caramel.
Section d’ or
The Section d’ or series was launched by Serge Lutens in 2015, positioned as an ultra-high-end series even more expensive than the Pendulum series, with a 50ml bottle costing around $600, specifically produced for the wealthy.
Cannibale
Smells interesting, like carefully blended spices in Italian balsamic vinegar, gradually fading into a soft and warm leather. Not as horrifying as its name suggests.
Cracheuse de Flammes
Originally a light combination of rose and aldehydes, but suddenly there’s a metallic sensation and the pungent green leaf scent, giving the rose a spicy and fiery feeling.
L’Haleine des Dieux
A combination of creamy vanilla milk and woody aroma, but with some interesting metallic notes walking back and forth. It’s hard to imagine why it’s called the breath of the gods.
L’Incendiaire
Using the fruity fragrance of plum to embellish the smoky texture of ebony wood, the bitterness of burning with a restraining fruity flavor. This fire is quite restrained and elegant.
Renard Constrictor
Suddenly, it’s like entering a kaleidoscope of floral feasts, crystal-clear grapes bring a crystalline shimmer, making the jasmine’s edges colorful, and the fragrance seems to transform into a sparkling wave.
Veilleur de Nuit
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Smells like a pile of dark chocolate crumbs stolen by a musk cat, with a slightly bitter cocoa flavor combined with the scent of musk, having a restrained gourmet feel.
Bourreau Des Fleurs
Deep medicinal scent at the forefront, followed by a pot of boiling sugar syrup, steaming out the scent of roasted fruity wood. In cold weather, the thick aroma of syrup envelops the wax flower, like petals encased in a layer of hard sugar shell.
Sidi Bel-Abbes
In the hazy smoke, plates of red berries are combined, and then it transforms into a smoky wood scent with a resinous fragrance, giving a sense of a religious sanctuary.
Conclusion：
Serge Lutens’ perfume collection is a captivating journey through a myriad of olfactory experiences. From the rich and complex notes of the Salon Perfumes to the delicate and refreshing scents of the L’Eau series, each fragrance is a work of art that tells a unique story. Whether it’s the mysterious depths of the dark labels or the exquisite refinement of the pendulum series, Serge Lutens Perfumes showcase a masterful blend of creativity, tradition, and luxury.