A dozen years ago, even after browsing through the perfume counters of various sizes in malls, only Chanel, Dior, and Hermès, brands dominated the perfume world. It seemed that only these brands ruled the roost in the realm of fragrances. If your interest in perfumes only extends to their pleasant aroma, commercial brands can fully meet your needs. Salon perfumes seemed to belong only to hardcore players. In recent years, there has been an explosion of salon perfumes, with various salon brands developing rapidly. As salon perfumes increasingly appear in the public eye, I know that the world of perfumes has changed drastically. Nowadays, it’s embarrassing not to have one or two bottles of salon perfumes. With all that said, what exactly are “salon perfumes”? Generally, we consider salon perfumes as niche brands that specialize in fragrances, usually using better ingredients and offering more uniqueness.
For easy understanding, this guide will be divided into four parts:
Part 1: Entry-level salon brands, Marginal salon brands
Part 2: Commercial brand salon lines, Advanced salon brands
1. Entry-level Salon Brands
Brands in this category are not necessarily more suitable for beginners than “advanced salon” brands, nor are they lower-end than “advanced salon” brands. This classification takes into account various attributes of the brands, including price, popularity, beginner-friendliness, originality, etc., recommending brands that are preferred for initial trials, hence called “entry-level salon.”
Serge Lutens
Keywords: Bold, Cutting-edge
Representative Work: Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin
Serge Lutens is actually not very friendly to beginners, but we still decided to put it first because it’s just so, so typical. Every aspect of Serge Lutens represents the face of salon perfumes. Calling it unfriendly is because it’s very bold, which is also one of the characteristics of salon perfumes. Serge Lutens is truly thorough in the bold direction. It can be said that Serge Lutens has done many things that many perfumers dare not do, truly perfuming for their own ideas rather than to meet market demands. It is precisely because of this that Serge Lutens has created many eye-opening classics and garnered a large number of enthusiastic fans. Looking back at Serge Lutens’ perfumes, eighty percent of them have gone down the bold route. For newcomers who have not been exposed to perfumes, the strong scent can be overwhelming. But for those who have smelled various commercial perfumes, only such bold scents can awaken their noses.
L’Artisan Parfumeur
Keywords: Beginner-Friendly, Balance
Representative Work: L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer
L’Artisan Parfumeur is quite the opposite of Serge Lutens; it’s very suitable for beginners. But this doesn’t mean it’s fresh and clean; there are many salon brands fresher than it, such as Guerlain and Diptyque. However, in the world of salon perfumes, freshness is not an absolute advantage. Fresh brands also imply being too “safe.” Anyone who truly wants to delve into salon brands is definitely not just looking for something pleasant to smell; it’s more about using the nose to discover a new world, broaden horizons, and express one’s personality. L’Artisan Parfumeur strikes a good balance in this regard. Its various styles of perfumes are refreshing and not too heavy or too light, avoiding being overly challenging or overly dull.
Annick Goutal
Keywords: classical, refined, pastoral poetry
Signature Fragrance: Goutal Un Matin d’Orage Eau de Toilette
Annick Goutal, abbreviated as AG, exudes a delicate, sensuous aura throughout. If other niche brands are like magical monsters created by an evil doctor or a series of dark, brooding paintings, AG is akin to an exquisite, rustic pastoral poem, an untouched idyllic paradise, or the melancholy beauty of Lin Daiyu. You can sense the perfumer’s attempt to convey her vision of a beautiful world, an ideal realm everyone longs to possess. AG’s fragrances mostly revolve around natural themes; you won’t detect any hormonal notes, only the essence of a perfect world depicted by a poet.
Diptyque
Keywords: high acceptance, artistic
Signature Fragrance: Diptyque Tam Dao Eau de Toilette
Diptyque fragrances are generally artistic and not overly intense. Even if a novice were to blindly choose, they’re unlikely to encounter any pitfalls. Most of their scents revolve around a single raw material, with many fragrances directly named after plants. Diptyque delves into various fragrance-related products beyond perfumes, such as scented candles, home fragrances, wax ornaments, and body care. The brand’s most distinctive feature is its profound artistic sense; each perfume bottle is accompanied by artistic illustrations, depicting the mood the fragrance aims to convey.
Atelier Cologne
Keywords: Concentrated cologne
Signature Fragrance: Atelier Cologne Oolang Infini
Atelier Cologne was born from a unique concept of concentrating colognes, officially referred to as “pure perfume.” What does this mean? It retains the fresh and pleasant qualities of cologne while ensuring longer-lasting scent retention. “Cologne” here doesn’t refer to the martial arts genre but rather to a category of fragrances characterized by their fresh, citrusy notes and EDC concentration (also known as “eau de cologne concentration”). Under this concept of redefining colognes, Atelier Cologne’s fragrance style is very clear, with many scents reminiscent of enjoying a refreshing soda on a summer day.
Acqua di Parma
Keywords: Fresh, Mediterranean essence
Signature Fragrance: Acqua di Parma Osmanthus MIRTO DI PANAREA
When you see this brand, you think of the blue ocean, fresh sea breeze, and the brilliant sunlight of the Mediterranean. The brand’s name boldly displays the word “water,” directly indicating its indelible freshness. The most popular and representative series of the brand is the “Blue Mediterraneo” collection, exuding a lazy vacation vibe within its refreshing and pleasant fragrance. As an Italian brand, it effectively epitomizes the idea that enjoying life is the essence of existence. The brand’s “Nobile” and “Cologne” series are equally splendid, with many high-quality creations offering a breath of fresh air.
Penhaligon’s
Keywords: British style, gentle restraint
Signature Fragrance: Penhaligon’s Endymion
Penhaligon’s is a salon brand from the UK. Both its official image and the fragrances it produces exude a strong British vibe. Specifically, whether for men or women, its perfumes give off a stable and gentle sense of restraint. This characteristic is particularly evident in its men’s fragrances, sometimes even giving off a “rigid” impression. The scents exude a gentlemanly demeanor, subtle yet robust, reminiscent of an elegantly mannered British scholar. While there are many niche fragrance brands in the UK, Penhaligon’s stands out as the quintessential representation of British style.
Creed
Keywords: Royal brand
Signature Fragrance: Creed Silver Mountain Water
When it comes to brands associated with royalty, there are quite a few contenders, but Creed’s reputation in this regard is unparalleled. Its longevity, dating back to its establishment in 1760, and its association with Queen Victoria of England for centuries have solidified its status. Moreover, its introduction of bespoke services and creation of perfumes for numerous social elites have further enhanced its upscale image. The brand’s long-term collaboration with royalty has influenced its fragrance style, presenting a distinct tone of stability, elegance, and restraint. In this realm, you won’t find much sentimentality; instead, there’s a sense of worldly sophistication, seemingly intriguing enough to capture royal interest.
Juliette Has A Gun
Keywords: Feminism
Signature Fragrance: Juliette Has A Gun Not A Perfume
The brand’s founder is Romano Ricci, the grandson of Nina Ricci. He explains that the Juliette with a Gun persona originates from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, with Juliette wielding a gun as a symbol of feminism, female emancipation, and vengeance against male dominance, Why this intense hatred towards men? The brand’s perfumes also symbolize various aspects of feminism, such as “Revenge Goddess,” “Beauty Gentleman,” and “Citizen Queen.” Juliette Has A Gun’s fragrances, almost exclusively for women, each exude a unique feminine charm, ranging from gentle and seductive to angry and wicked. These distinct personalities make the fragrances quite intriguing.
Roger & Gallet
Keywords: Girlish
Signature Fragrance: Roger & Gallet Fleur d’Osmanthus
Few brands pursue girlish fragrances with as much dedication as Roger & Gallet, with Anna Sui being its only counterpart in the commercial realm. However, Anna Sui tends to represent a slightly younger “little girl” rather than a girlish image. Most of Roger & Gallet’s fragrances embody the epitome of girlishness. Sweet and delightful floral-fruity notes permeate the entire brand, regardless of the theme, with a plethora of delectable fruits raining down from heaven, tantalizing your senses before slowly unveiling the story. Girlish fragrances are a battleground for commercial brands, with major players investing substantial resources to dominate the market. However, in the niche fragrance world, it’s a neglected niche, with Roger & Gallet being the only brand dedicated to it. Nonetheless, don’t think that creating girlish fragrances is amateur work; after all, Roger & Gallet is a royal brand with a history spanning over 300 years. Their traditional eau de colognes are said to follow the oldest original formula dating back to 1709.
Marginal Salon Brands
This category of salon brands possesses unique characteristics and exceptional talent. Strictly speaking, they don’t fit neatly into any specific category and thus require separate discussion.
Jo Malone
Keywords: Fresh, Minimalist, Polarizing
Signature Fragrance: Jo Malone Wild Bluebell
Jo Malone is considered “edgy” because it closely resembles commercial fragrance brands. Firstly, Jo Malone has lost its “niche” status; it has numerous standalone stores in mainland China and enjoys high global sales. It lacks the mysterious and niche feel typical of salon brands; it’s common to see students flaunting Jo Malone perfumes on social media. Although categorized as a salon brand, Jo Malone feels more like a commercial fragrance. Secondly, Jo Malone’s fragrance style leans towards freshness and simplicity. Many perfumes are created by combining two basic ingredients, opposite to the complexity and uniqueness of salon fragrances. Jo Malone’s fresh and simple characteristics make it extremely popular among Asians who prefer light scents. However, this has led to severe polarization; detractors criticize its drawbacks: thin scent, short longevity, poor quality ingredients, and low value for money.
Demeter
Keywords: scent simulation of everyday life
Signature Fragrance: Demeter Fragrance Snow
Demeter is another brand that doesn’t fit neatly into any category, and many argue it shouldn’t even be considered a fragrance brand. This assertion isn’t entirely baseless; Demeter resembles more of an artistic product for savoring life. Most of its fragrances simulate scents from daily life, such as rain, snow, soil, earthworms, and paperback books. Many of these scents are not suitable for use as perfumes and have short longevity. Demeter’s positioning encourages customers to seek and savor scents reminiscent of memories. Therefore, classifying it as a salon fragrance brand isn’t appropriate.
Maison Margiela
Keywords: curiosity, scene reenactment
Signature Fragrance: Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
Maison Margiela is a true “hybrid”; fundamentally a fashion brand, its fragrances are so exceptional that people forget it’s primarily a fashion label. Maison Margiela’s fragrances exude a sense of curiosity; its Replica series, in particular, focuses on the concept of “reproduction,” aiming to recreate specific scenes from life, deviating entirely from conventional fragrance routes. Beneath its appearance of fresh and artistic simplicity lies a slightly eccentric and neurotic soul; I would describe it as “artistic.”
Clean
Keywords: laundry detergent
Signature Fragrance: Clean Cool Cotton
Clean appears here because it’s exceptionally unique. As a salon fragrance brand, its life goal isn’t to create pleasant perfumes but… to create pleasant laundry detergents. Yes, Clean’s founder has an intense love for the clean, fresh scent of freshly washed clothes, reaching a fanatical level. So, they decided to create a fragrance brand specifically to mimic that feeling. Almost all fragrances under this brand are created around the theme of “cleanliness.”
4711 Maurer & Wirtz
Keywords: ancient cologne brand
Signature Fragrance: 4711 Original Eau de Cologne
4711 is a bit of an oddity; calling it a commercial brand wouldn’t be accurate, and it lacks the typical characteristics of a salon brand. Its fragrances are known for their “one trick pony” nature; the 4711 Original Eau de Cologne still uses the ancient formula from 1792, exuding a strong historical charm and a delightful scent that remains popular even today. However, its success lies primarily in this vintage formula, as other fragrances in its lineup lack innovation and remain confined within the cologne framework. This isn’t what a salon fragrance brand should be like.
Your favorite salon brand hasn’t appeared yet? Don’t worry; it’s probably in the “Advanced Salon Brands” category, which we’ll cover in the second half of our upcoming fragrance guide. Stay tuned!